Remaking the heating radiator for a VAZ 07. We modernize and change the stove on the “Seven” with our own hands. Next, we take on the modification of the air ducts of the seven stove

As you know, the heating system of a car allows you to maintain a microclimate in the cabin, effectively warm the windows, remove moisture, etc. In simple words, the health of the driver and passengers, comfort when operating the vehicle, as well as safety when driving a car directly depends on the state of this system.

Taking into account the fact that “classic” domestic VAZ models (for example, 2103, 2106, 2107) remain quite common on the roads, a common problem is that the VAZ 2107 or 2106 heater does not work. In this article we will focus on the 2107 model, consider the design of the heater on such a car, and also what to do if the VAZ 2107 stove does not heat well.

So, the heating system of the VAZ 2107 includes:

heater;
fan;
heater control unit;

From the outside, air enters through the air intake into the casing of the air intake chamber. The camera is located in the engine compartment (in the area under the windshield). The air is then redirected to the heater, where moisture condensation occurs.

An important element is the heater radiator on the VAZ 2107, which heats up due to coolant circulation (). In this case, the air temperature changes due to the opening and closing of a special tap (VAZ heater tap), which reduces or increases the flow of heated coolant entering the heater radiator.

You can control the crane thanks to the presence of a regulator in the cabin, which is connected to the crane using a flexible rod. The air flow into the cabin is supplied by the heater fan, and the intensity of the supply will depend on the rotation speed. The VAZ 2107 heater motor is responsible for the operation of the fan. The fan rotation speed changes due to the use of a resistor.

By the way, if the car is moving at high speed, the heating system can supply air to the cabin even when the VAZ 2107 heater fan is turned off. The fact is that the air flow from outside is capable of creating pressure in the air supply box, due to which heated air penetrates into the cabin.

The heating system itself is simple. Air ducts can direct heated air to the feet, the driver, the windshield and side windows, etc. You can control the stove, change the temperature, and select the blowing direction using the knobs on the dashboard.

The handle at the top is responsible for adjusting the position of the heater tap. By moving the handle as far as possible to the left, the tap closes completely, and to the right will mean full opening.

The middle handle changes the position of the air supply cover, which allows you to adjust the intensity of the hot air supply. The handle on the bottom allows you to control the dampers of the heated glass air ducts. If you move the handle to the right, the air flow goes to the side windows, while the left position allows you to blow the windshield.

Modification of the VAZ 2107 stove: heater tuning

Although the design of the VAZ 2107 stove is simple, however, the design is not without drawbacks. For this reason, many owners modify the VAZ 2107 stove with their own hands or carry out repairs, change worn out elements, etc.

As a rule, the list of improvements includes improvements in terms of increasing the tightness of air ducts (often in those places where there are connections). This solution makes it possible to achieve more efficient heating of the interior space and blowing of the windows.

The fan of the VAZ 2107 stove is also often replaced, when the standard fan is replaced with a powerful analogue from other VAZ models. The fan of the VAZ 2108 stove is suitable for replacement. Also, the electric motor (motor) of the fan 2107 is mounted on plastic bushings, the bushings wear out, the shaft begins to play, and noise, hum or whistle is heard during operation.

Replacing it with the VAZ 2108 version, which already has bearings, solves this problem too. To replace the VAZ 2107 stove fan, you need to prepare a fuse, a resistor and a speed switch. The parts fit from the Niva and Kalina models.

To remove the fan you need two screwdrivers (flat and Phillips), a 7 and 10 wrench, and pliers. To get to the fan, the instrument panel, shelf, and glove box are removed. Then, using key 7, loosen the casing of the air damper adjustment cable. Next, the cable loop is thrown off the lever.

Now, using key 10, the nut securing the heater body is unscrewed, after which the air ducts (left and right) are removed from the heater body with a flat screwdriver. Then, using the same flat screwdriver, you need to remove the latches that secure the fan.

Next you need to disconnect the wire terminals, remove the fan from the stove body, and remove the impeller. Taking into account the fact that the fan from the VAZ 2108 is slightly larger in size, changes are being made to the design of the stove.

Replacing only the motor requires making an additional hole in the grille through which hot air passes down. If you do not make a hole, the electric motor housing will rest against the grille.

If you need to change the stove housing in order to install a 2108 fan on the “seven”, then you need a new housing, which is usually made of plexiglass. During manufacturing, all dimensions must be accurately maintained, since errors will cause vibrations and the new fan will break. After assembling the body, all joints are coated with sealant.

The main thing is to take into account when reassembling and installing that the air is taken from outside and not from the passenger compartment. Also, if air does not flow into the “sleeves” or the stove blows under the panel, you should check the fastenings of the air ducts. It often happens that the air duct simply does not fit into place, is clogged with foam rubber, etc.

The air ducts themselves are also being improved. This is done by making additional holes in the stove body, into which several plumbing hoses are then inserted. If these hoses are connected to the side air ducts, as well as the bottom ones, then this will create a more powerful flow of warm air when blowing the legs or windows.

The VAZ 2107 stove does not work: reasons

Taking into account the fact that there can be quite a lot of heater malfunctions, we will consider the main ones below:

First of all, air in the cooling system causes the stove to not work. In this case, it is important to remove the air plug, that is, to perform high-quality de-airing of the engine cooling system.
The heater may not work well because the radiator of the VAZ 2107 heater is clogged. As a result, the coolant does not circulate well through the heater system, and the air warms up poorly. It turns out that when the heater on a VAZ 2107 does not work completely, that is, it blows, but the air is cold, this often indicates that the radiator is completely clogged and needs to be washed or replaced. To quickly determine this, you need to feel the pipes. If the inlet pipe is warm and the outlet pipe is cold, then the problem is obvious.
It also happens that the heater valve is open, but no coolant is supplied to the radiator. This usually happens because scale and dirt have accumulated in the system, and the tap is clogged. To solve the problem, the faucet must be removed for cleaning or replacement.
Often the culprit that causes the heater to work poorly is the pump (water pump of the engine cooling system). As a rule, pump problems can lead to the fact that not only the heater does not work, but also the engine does not cool, which leads to overheating of the engine. The pump may not work as a result of a broken generator belt, as well as the reason for the destruction of the impeller, jammed bearings, etc.
in some cases, a displacement of the partition in the radiator can be noted. In this case, both the inlet and outlet pipes of the radiator will be hot, but no air will flow into the cabin. In this case, there is a high probability that the partition has shifted and the radiator needs to be replaced.
in a situation where an oily coating is found on the car windows or an oily liquid is visible on the floor, this is the result of an antifreeze or antifreeze leak. Coolant may flow in the area of the pipes, in the area of the radiator tap, etc. The taps and pipes must be replaced, the stove radiator can be soldered. You can also use a cooling system sealant, however, soldering and sealant is a temporary measure. It is optimal to replace the radiator immediately.

First of all, it is important to immediately identify the breakdown. If the problem is a leaking pipe, faucet or air lock, this problem can be solved quickly.

If the cause is the heater radiator or other hard-to-reach elements, then a larger amount of work is expected, that is, you need to separately study the instructions on how to remove the VAZ 2107 heater and how to replace the VAZ 2107 heater. Let's look at methods for eliminating common faults.

If the heater in the car does not turn off in the summer, although cold air is set on the control unit, then the faucet or the faucet drive cable is faulty. The valve is located under the dashboard on the passenger side. You can first try to tighten the tap by hand, but you should not use much force, otherwise the tap will break and antifreeze will flow into the cabin.

If the problem is with the faucet, it is optimal to immediately replace it with a new one. To do this, a pipe is disconnected under the hood that goes to the tap. To prevent some of the coolant from pouring into the engine compartment after removal, a container is placed under the pipe. Then the storage shelf is removed, then using wrench 10 the nuts securing the faucet to the stove body are unscrewed. Now the tap can be removed from the studs and a new one installed.

As a rule, the heater tap needs to be changed if it gets stuck, etc. In this case, it is better to install a ceramic faucet instead of a standard metal one. Such a faucet, unlike its factory counterpart, does not become sour, scale does not accumulate on the ceramics, and corrosion does not occur. As a result, even if the tap is closed for a long time (for example, from spring to autumn), after opening it, full functionality remains.

Radiator malfunctions are more serious failures. If the heater radiator is leaking or clogged, it must be removed. The same can be said about the stove fan, motor, etc. To carry out such repairs, you need to know how to remove the 2107 stove.

In short, to get to the radiator, you need to unscrew the radiator pipes. Taking into account the leaking antifreeze, you will need to replace the container. If you need to remove the stove fan, you do not need to touch the cooling system itself. In fact, removing the VAZ 2107 stove can be divided into two stages:

dismantling elements in the cabin;
removing elements under the hood;

Above we looked at how to remove the stove body in the cabin. Now let's look at the engine compartment. First, you need to remove all the clamps that secure the tubes and hoses of the heater valve, then remove the hoses. After using the 7 head, unscrew the fasteners of the stove seal, then remove the seal from the pipes. To remove the radiator, first remove the casing of the valve adjustment cable and remove the loop from the lever.

Now, using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the 2 mounting bolts, remove the pipe from the radiator, and simultaneously dismantle the tap. Please note that there are rubber seals between the pipe and the radiator. So, they need to be replaced with new ones during reassembly.

If the radiator is clogged, flushing the stove radiator involves removing it, cleaning it from the outside, washing it from the inside, and blowing it with a compressor. The previously removed pipes, heater valve and other system elements are also cleaned.

The inside of the pipe can be cleaned with a brush. The radiator is washed out by Karcher under a pressure of about 5 atmospheres. You need to wash until there is no leakage from the radiator. pure water free of dirt and impurities.

If there is no Karcher, you can flush the radiator with caustic soda. It is enough to prepare a solution of soda, pour it into the radiator and leave for 60 minutes. Then the solution must be drained and the degree of contamination of the drained liquid must be assessed. The washing is repeated until the drained solution becomes clean. At the end, the stove radiator must be dried by blowing it with a compressor.

Let us also add that if the radiator is leaking and soldering is needed, then such an element can be disassembled by unsoldering its upper part and bottom. To do this, you need to heat the part with a gas burner. After it is possible to remove the upper and lower parts, the insides are cleaned mechanically (using an iron mesh) or a washing liquid is used (alkaline solution, acid solutions). After this, the radiator needs to be soldered.

As practice shows, the VAZ 2107 stove heats poorly not only due to leaks or problems with the radiator or tap. You can also highlight malfunctions in the operation of the fan mode switch, failure of the wiring of the control unit, oxidation of contacts, etc. For example, the motor of the VAZ 2107 stove may be problematic. As mentioned above, if a whistle appears, then the electric motor needs to be cleaned and lubricated (a temporary solution) or replaced with a new one, and it is better to install a more reliable option with bearings.

Let's move on. The control unit for the VAZ 2107 stove is controlled by levers on the instrument panel, which are connected to the actuators using flexible rods. Moreover, it is thanks to this solution that the degree of opening of the air dampers is regulated, the heater valve opens and closes, air flows are redistributed and blowing zones are selected.

There is also a lower damper called the air distribution cover. This damper is controlled by a special lever, which is located on the driver's side under the dashboard.

So, the rods mentioned above are a metal wire, which over time can stretch, burst, jump off, etc. It is not difficult to guess that broken heater cables and other problems with the dampers also cause the heater to not work correctly. In this case, the stove also needs to be disassembled and repaired.

Let's sum it up

As you can see, even taking into account the simplicity of the design, repairing the VAZ 2107 stove can be a labor-intensive procedure due to difficult access to certain elements of the heating system.

In other words, if you can replace a pipe or tap of a VAZ heater quite quickly and easily, in the case of a heater radiator or heater motor, you will need to carry out a whole series of dismantling and reassembly work.

Moreover, if such a need arises, modification and tuning of the VAZ stove, as well as maintenance and replacement of the VAZ 2107 heater with your own hands can be done independently in the conditions of an ordinary garage.

Why the stove on the VAZ 2107 does not heat well, reasons:

A common cause is an underheated engine.

Signs: The temperature gauge is in the white zone, the engine takes a long time to warm up. At an outside temperature of -20, within 8-10 minutes of idling the engine, it should warm up to 40-50 degrees (the very beginning of the white zone of the temperature gauge).

If the temperature rises less, it’s bad (the thermostat is faulty), higher is good. Next, you need to drive in 1-2 gears, and in 5-8 minutes the temperature should rise to 80 degrees (the border of the green and white zones). If the engine has not warmed up to 80, replace the thermostat!

Air in the cooling system.

First of all, you need to check the antifreeze level in the expansion tank and the serviceability of the radiator cap. If the radiator cap is faulty, air will remain in the system, which will result in poor circulation of coolant and, accordingly, cold air in the cabin.

The stove blows poorly to the left

The lower flap is completely open, or its latch is broken. To fully blow the glass, this damper must be closed. If it does not lock, you can use an elastic band, hooking it onto the “choke” handle, or somewhere else.

Modification of the VAZ 2107 stove so that it heats better.

As practice shows, it gives off a sufficient amount of heat and its improvement is not required. This means that in order to increase the efficiency of the heater, the airflow system needs to be modified. Coat all air ducts with sealant, especially at their connections. This especially applies to VAZ 2105 - 2107 cars, due to their design features of the air ducts.

Replacing the stove motor.

The stove can be improved by installing a snail instead of an engine with an impeller, as used in VAZ 2108-2109 models. This tuning will increase air flow and reduce noise. The motor used in these models differs from the seven in its increased speed and greater power. To install it, a slight modification to the stove body will be required - due to its larger size, it is necessary to remove the comb, which directs the air flow to the feet.

You can leave the original impeller, but you need to enlarge the hole in it with a diameter of up to 7 mm, for the motor shaft from the figure eight.

Such modification of the stove also requires replacing the switch and resistor. Both parts are taken from the same model as the motor. The VAZ 2107 switch is designed for a lower current, and when used with a powerful engine it can simply melt. The native resistance of the VAZ 2107 will not allow the motor to operate at full power, which is why the resistor is changed.

We start by completely disassembling the heater housing. Almost everything is cut off from the bottom of the stove, except for the fasteners and frame. Next, we make the body for the snail. For this purpose, you can use any durable material - polycarbonate, plastic, plexiglass, etc. The four walls of the future body are cut out of the material (that you have chosen) and screwed to the bottom of the stove.

After all the steps done, we put the lower part on the middle one, first remove the diffuser. The dimensions must be adjusted so that the snail fits exactly into the body and does not protrude beyond the radiator mounts located on the middle part.

At this stage of work, you should pay special attention; if the body turns out to be large, then you will not be able to install the stove in its normal place. After accurately adjusting the dimensions of the new housing, all joints must be coated with sealant.

Let's take care of the air ducts. You can use commercially available plumbing hoses and cuffs. In the new stove body, holes of a suitable diameter for the cuffs are cut in the bottom, on both sides. Hoses are installed in them - the side ones are connected to the right and left air ducts, the lower ones away from the legs, to exhaust the warm air flow.

To heat the rear passengers, you can additionally install a pair of longer hoses. The amount of heat given off by the stove radiator and the power of the snail are quite enough for everything. The places of the side air ducts and hose connections are coated with sealant to prevent loss of warm air.

Such a modification will increase the efficiency of the stove on the VAZ 2107 by 2-3 times, both in the quality of glass blowing, a large flow of warm air does not allow the windows to fog up, and in heating the interior. This modernization of the interior heater is available to everyone and does not require large expenses.

Conversion of the VAZ-2108 stove (snail) to VAZ-2107: video

Note: it should be remembered that when installing the volute and motor, the switch must be replaced. Make sure the heater fuse has the current rating required to operate the modified heater.

It is located in the cabin and is attached to the partition of the power unit compartment with four studs. The place where the stove connects to the body is sealed. The stove kit includes a fan casing, a radiator casing (with an air supply cover), and a fan casing (with an air distributor cover).

If necessary, the supplied air is heated by a liquid radiator. The latter is equipped with pipes for air supply and exhaust. They are supplied to the engine cooling system. A fan is mounted directly under the radiator. The electric motor, equipped with an impeller, is mounted on two elastic pads. The fan can operate in two speed modes. A special switch is located on the central panel.

Using deflectors, air is directed not only into the car interior, but also onto the side and windshields. Despite the fact that everything seems to be well thought out, the standard stove causes a lot of complaints among car enthusiasts. Among the main problems that owners of “Sevens” face are the following:

weak airflow in the side deflectors;
lack of airflow and heating for rear passengers;
insufficient air flow;
noise when the stove is operating.

And this is not the entire list of problems that owners of this model face. Some experts recommend installing a stove from the eighth model (while leaving the original impeller). But such manipulations can only partially solve the problem. You will only be able to achieve a slight improvement in the air flow into the cabin. At the same time, the noise will also increase.

In general, this is not a very suitable option. Therefore, we recommend making changes to the standard “Seven” stove (by installing a complete volute). Also, we advise you to modify the lower part of the stove in order to accommodate the snail and obtain a more uniform flow in different directions.

Tuning the VAZ 2107 stove: what tools and components will be needed

First of all, in order to make changes to the stove and radically solve all its problems, you need to stock up on snail from the “Eight”. Next, you will also need plastic, plexiglass, textolite (all these materials can be used to build a new building). Finally, to convert the stove to a "Seven" model, you will need bolts, nuts and sealant.
Important information! Before starting work, carefully read the instructions for. One wrong operation can lead to you being left without a stove altogether.

Before you start modifying the stove, you need to dismantle its lower and middle parts. After this, the parts are thoroughly washed. Then the entire lower part is cut off (you only need to leave a little plastic and the fastening points). The side walls are cut out of plexiglass or plastic. Their sizes must be adjusted to the location, since everything depends on the material chosen. The cut blank is attached to the side wall of the stove. The same manipulations are performed with the second wall. When this stage is completed, you can move on to the middle part of the stove. This is where the diffuser is cut off. Here it is important to pay attention to the presence of two bulges on the sides (supports for the radiator). There is no need to trim them. After the middle and lower parts are ready, you can start trying on the snail. It should become as high as possible, but at the same time not go beyond the level of the radiator stops. Finally, the bottom needs to be cut and installed. It is important to remember that the back of the stove will be the narrowest point. It is made as small as possible. The snail nozzle is placed in the center in order to obtain uniform airflow. When all these manipulations are completed, the structure is coated with sealant. After this, you can install the front wall and try on the stove in the car.

After fitting, you can remove the side air ducts and prepare for the final work. For the duct system, you can use regular plumbing hoses. To do this, holes are drilled in the body into which cuffs are inserted, and then plumbing hoses. Here it is important to ensure that some of the hoses are used to heat the passengers sitting in the rear. After this, the hoses are put on standard blowers. To ensure that there is no air loss at the joints, you can additionally secure them with self-tapping screws and coat the seams with sealant.

What is the result? Air blows evenly from all deflectors. Moreover, even at the first speed of the stove, the air flow exceeds the same figure at the second speed in the standard version. The windows no longer fog up (by the way, with such modifications you can also get rid of fogging of the rear window). And when the car is moving, the operation of the stove is not audible at all.

Do-it-yourself modification of the stove blower

The previous option is quite good, but it is labor-intensive. In principle, you can only get by with modifying the airflow (especially for the left pipe). As a result, the side windows will stop fogging up and you will achieve good results. The main essence of this “tuning” is to install a fan in the left pipe, which will force air from the stove to the deflector. To accomplish this task, it is necessary to remove the deflector from the pipe. This is done very simply - the part is pryed off with a screwdriver and pulled forward. The same operation is carried out on the other side.

Once you do this, you can remove the deflector without difficulty and without the risk of damaging it or damaging the panel. After removing the deflector, you need to remove the holder from the dashboard. It is installed on special antennae and this operation takes only a few seconds. The trick to this tuning is that a regular computer fan (50 millimeters) will be used to force air supply. In order to install it, you must first try the fan on the deflector body. Then markings are applied and cuts are made in the plastic using a utility knife.

As a result, the fan must fit tightly onto the housing so that it does not dangle during operation. After installation, you must check that the blades rotate normally. If something bothers them, adjustments are made. In order for the fan to draw air from the stove and avoid backdraft, it is necessary to make the structure airtight. Therefore, excess openings can be sealed with the parts that we obtained when cutting the deflector mount (for installing the fan). When installing the resulting system, you must first place the fan in the nozzle area, and only then install the deflector housing. Once all mechanical operations are completed, you can proceed to connecting the electrical. The best option is to connect the fan to a wire on which voltage appears only when the ignition is turned on. You can also connect directly to the stove wire.

All these manipulations allow you to achieve really, really good results. The first option makes it possible to modify the stove structurally, making it more efficient. Noise reduction is a nice bonus that will reward you for all your hard work. The second method allows you to work directly with the force of air currents. It is cheaper and less labor intensive. This option is suitable for those who are not very irritated by the noise effects that accompany the operation of the stove.

Video modification of the VAZ 2107 stove

Many car enthusiasts tried to improve the heating of the VAZ 2107 interior with little effort, but they never achieved an effective result. You can, for example, seal the joints of the air duct hoses with the nozzles or somehow redistribute the air flows, but in general the temperature in the cabin remains at the same level. In order for the VAZ 2107 cabin to actually become warm and cozy, you need to significantly increase the supply of hot air through the heater radiator.

But the fact is that the fan on the VAZ 2107 is too small, it cannot create the required flow of warm air into the cabin; it would not hurt to install a more powerful fan in its place, for example, from a VAZ 2108 car. If you compare the fans with each other, you can see: The fan motor from the VAZ 2107 consumes a current of 4.5 A at a rotation speed of 3000 rpm, and on the VAZ 2108 - 14 A at 4100 rpm. Before starting work, you need to mark out the work front for yourself in advance. We remove the lower part of the stove from the interior of the VAZ 2107; it consists of a casing with an electric fan attached to it. We will completely dismantle the standard electric fan; we will no longer need it. The motor from the VAZ 2108 is a little longer so that it fits tightly on the casing; one of the aerodynamic ridges that directs the air flow to the legs needs to be cut off. This will allow the bottom cover to slam shut completely. What to do with the impeller? We'll have to remove it and assign its functions to a five-blade fan, standard for classics. Its efficiency, compared to the “squirrel wheel” of the VAZ 2108, is lower, because its motor is three times more powerful, but the lighter, from an aerodynamic point of view, rotor of the new motor will rotate at a frequency higher than 4100 rpm.

We increase the diameter of the hole in the impeller and carefully insert the shaft from the new electric motor into it. At this stage, you need to ensure that the entire assembled structure falls into place. Before installing a modified heater on a car, you need to try to directly supply power to the motor, thereby checking its functionality. All that remains is to decide on the built-in resistor. Its task is to ensure a “quiet” operating mode for the stove, but as a result, the modified heater blows too much air and a strong hum occurs. In this case, it makes sense to change the standard resistor to a resistor from the figure eight. We also install the electric fan switch from the VAZ 2108. The reason for the replacement is that the standard element is not designed for high current and during prolonged operation it will overheat and one day melt. During the cold season, you will immediately feel all the benefits of a modified stove. Attention! Since the air flow is increased by increasing the flow rate, operating the stove at maximum mode will be accompanied by a high noise level. However, when it’s minus thirty outside or even lower, you simply don’t pay attention to this drawback.