Circuit from 12 volts to 3 volts. Power unit. Transformer power supply on KT808

Repairing an amplifier reproduced from a foreign-made player is often difficult due to the use of a low-voltage microcircuit in it, the analogue of which is very difficult to find. Therefore, you have to make a new design using transistors or microcircuits of domestic production, but in this case the radio amateur experiences certain difficulties in choosing the desired circuit with a low value power supply voltage. For example, when repeating the circuits described in, it is necessary to use 53 radio components in the microcircuit version or 72 radio components in the transistor version. It is better to use a simplified scheme. This circuit has obvious advantages - one active element (K157UD2 microcircuit), a small number of parts used, and fairly good characteristics. But there is one significant and seemingly insurmountable drawback for a low-voltage player: the high supply voltage of the microcircuit (in this amplifier 9V). There is a way out of this situation - to use a converter of the player’s primary power supply voltage, usually 3 V, to a secondary, higher voltage, from which the amplifier is powered. In this version, the design will require only 10 elements for the converter and 21 for the amplifier.

The developed version of the power converter for the player's playback amplifier (the commutator motor is powered directly from the current source) has the following technical characteristics:

Output voltage, V, with an output current of 15 mA and an input voltage of 2-3 V.................... 7 - 10

Secondary voltage ripple factor, %, no more.................................................... ..........0.001

Conversion frequency, kHz................................................... ........................................................ .........100...200

Efficiency, %, not less................................................... ........................................................ ................................... 55

Dimensions, mm................................................... ........................................................ ................................14x10x10

The voltage converter is built according to the circuit of a push-pull generator (Fig. 1), which made it possible to obtain a fairly high efficiency. The role of switches is performed by transistors VT1 and VT2, which alternately open and close like transistors of a symmetrical multivibrator. The phasing of their operation is carried out by correspondingly switching on the collector and base windings of transformer T1. The voltage divider R2R1 ensures the start of the converter. When the supply voltage is turned on, the voltage drop across resistor R2 (about 0.7 V) is applied to the bases of the transistors and opens them. Due to the scatter in the parameters of the transistors, the collector currents (and the currents in the collector windings of transformer T1) cannot be exactly the same, and an increase in the current in one of the generator arms leads to the appearance of positive feedback to the base of this transistor and, as a consequence, an avalanche-like increase in the current until it saturates . When the rate of rise of current in the collector winding decreases, the back EMF creates a positive connection to the base of the transistor of the other arm, the collector current in the first arm decreases and increases like an avalanche in the collector circuit and the winding of the other transistor. Thus, a time-varying magnetic flux is induced in the magnetic core of the transformer, which will create an EMF in the secondary winding (pins 7-8). The diode bridge VD1 - VD4 converts alternating voltage into pulsating voltage, and its smoothing is carried out by elements of the power circuit of the playback amplifier. In the converter device, capacitor C1 increases the reliability of the self-excitation process.

The design uses the most common KT315 transistors, and you can take transistors with any letter index and parameter h 21E >50. However, you should not choose transistors with too large h 21E, since this will reduce the efficiency of the device. The use of other transistors (except KT373G) is undesirable, since the saturation voltage of the collector-emitter junction of the recommended transistors is only 0.4 V, and they are small in size. Any small-sized resistors and capacitor. The transformer is made on a ring magnetic core K7X4X2 made of ferrite grades 600NN, 400NN. The collector winding is wound in two wires (0.2 mm in diameter) and contains 11 turns, and the base winding (also in two wires with a diameter of 0.13 mm) has 17 turns. The secondary (output) winding contains 51 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.13 mm. Winding is done in bulk using PEV or PEL wire. Instead of KD522B diodes, small-sized germanium diodes can be used, with a corresponding change in the number of turns of the transformer. This will even lead to an increase in converter efficiency by 10-15%. If the converter uses a full-wave rectification circuit with output from the middle point of the secondary winding, this will reduce the number of diodes by two and further increase the efficiency, since one rectifying diode will be connected in series with the load (amplifier) ​​instead of two. In this case, it is necessary to recalculate the converter.

The converter can be mounted in any way; its parts can be placed on the same board with the amplifier parts or designed as a separate block. In the author's design, the second option was used (Fig. 2). The parts of the converter are glued together into a three-dimensional structure consisting of three layers. The first layer is capacitor C1 and resistors R1, R2. The second is a transformer and a diode bridge, soldered from VD1-VD4. The third is transistors VT1, VT2, soldered together by the emitter terminals. Before installing transistors, to reduce the size of the block, they should be ground off from the sides to a length of 7 mm. The transformer leads are soldered directly to the parts leads. The remaining connections are made with thin conductors. After this, you should solder the input and output conductors and check the operation of the unit. If you use serviceable elements and correctly perform the installation, the structure will work immediately. If this does not happen, then you need to check the correct connection of the transformer windings. After this, the entire structure should be filled with epoxy resin. A fully manufactured and tested unit is placed in a box made of thin paper; holes for the leads are first made in it and the volume is filled with compound.

How to get a non-standard voltage that does not fit into the standard range?

Standard voltage is the voltage that is very commonly used in your electronic gadgets. This voltage is 1.5 Volts, 3 Volts, 5 Volts, 9 Volts, 12 Volts, 24 Volts, etc. For example, your antediluvian MP3 player contained one 1.5 Volt battery. The TV remote control already uses two 1.5 Volt batteries connected in series, which means 3 Volts. In the USB connector, the outermost contacts have a potential of 5 Volts. Probably everyone had a Dandy in their childhood? To power Dandy, it was necessary to supply it with a voltage of 9 volts. Well, 12 Volts are used in almost all cars. 24 Volt is already used mainly in industry. Also, for this, relatively speaking, standard series, various consumers of this voltage are “sharpened”: light bulbs, record players, etc.

But, alas, our world is not ideal. Sometimes you just really need to get a voltage that is not from the standard range. For example, 9.6 Volts. Well, neither this way nor that... Yes, the power supply helps us out here. But again, if you use a ready-made power supply, then you will have to carry it along with the electronic trinket. How to solve this issue? So, I will give you three options:

Option #1

Make a voltage regulator in the electronic trinket circuit according to this scheme (in more detail):

Option No. 2

Build a stable source of non-standard voltage using three-terminal voltage stabilizers. Schemes to the studio!


What do we see as a result? We see a voltage stabilizer and a zener diode connected to the middle terminal of the stabilizer. XX are the last two digits written on the stabilizer. There may be numbers 05, 09, 12, 15, 18, 24. There may already be even more than 24. I don’t know, I won’t lie. These last two digits tell us the voltage that the stabilizer will produce according to the classic connection scheme:


Here, the 7805 stabilizer gives us 5 Volts at the output according to this scheme. 7812 will produce 12 Volts, 7815 - 15 Volts. You can read more about stabilizers.

U Zener diode – this is the stabilization voltage on the zener diode. If we take a zener diode with a stabilization voltage of 3 Volts and a voltage regulator 7805, then the output will be 8 Volts. 8 Volts is already a non-standard voltage range ;-). It turns out that by choosing the right stabilizer and the right zener diode, you can easily get a very stable voltage from a non-standard range of voltages ;-).

Let's look at all this with an example. Since I simply measure the voltage at the terminals of the stabilizer, I do not use capacitors. If I were powering the load, then I would also use capacitors. Our guinea pig is the 7805 stabilizer. We supply 9 Volts from the bulldozer to the input of this stabilizer:


Therefore, the output will be 5 Volts, after all, the stabilizer is 7805.


Now we take a zener diode for U stabilization = 2.4 Volts and insert it according to this circuit, it is possible without capacitors, after all, we are just measuring the voltage.



Oops, 7.3 Volts! 5+2.4 Volts. Works! Since my zener diodes are not high-precision (precision), the voltage of the zener diode may differ slightly from the nameplate (voltage declared by the manufacturer). Well, I think it's no problem. 0.1 Volt will not make a difference for us. As I already said, in this way you can select any value out of the ordinary.

Option #3

There is also another similar method, but here diodes are used. Maybe you know that the voltage drop across the forward junction of a silicon diode is 0.6-0.7 Volts, and that of a germanium diode is 0.3-0.4 Volts? It is this property of the diode that we will use ;-).

So, let's get the diagram into the studio!


We assemble this structure according to the diagram. The unstabilized input DC voltage also remained 9 Volts. Stabilizer 7805.


So what's the outcome?


Almost 5.7 Volts;-), which was what needed to be proven.

If two diodes are connected in series, then the voltage will drop across each of them, therefore, it will be summed up:


Each silicon diode drops 0.7 Volts, which means 0.7 + 0.7 = 1.4 Volts. Same with germanium. You can connect three or four diodes, then you need to sum the voltages on each. In practice, more than three diodes are not used. Diodes can be installed even at low power, since in this case the current through them will still be small.

How to get a non-standard voltage that does not fit into the standard range?

Standard voltage is the voltage that is very commonly used in your electronic gadgets. This voltage is 1.5 Volts, 3 Volts, 5 Volts, 9 Volts, 12 Volts, 24 Volts, etc. For example, your antediluvian MP3 player contained one 1.5 Volt battery. The TV remote control already uses two 1.5 Volt batteries connected in series, which means 3 Volts. In the USB connector, the outermost contacts have a potential of 5 Volts. Probably everyone had a Dandy in their childhood? To power Dandy, it was necessary to supply it with a voltage of 9 volts. Well, 12 Volts are used in almost all cars. 24 Volt is already used mainly in industry. Also, for this, relatively speaking, standard series, various consumers of this voltage are “sharpened”: light bulbs, record players, etc.

But, alas, our world is not ideal. Sometimes you just really need to get a voltage that is not from the standard range. For example, 9.6 Volts. Well, neither this way nor that... Yes, the power supply helps us out here. But again, if you use a ready-made power supply, then you will have to carry it along with the electronic trinket. How to solve this issue? So, I will give you three options:

Option #1

Make a voltage regulator in the electronic trinket circuit according to this scheme (in more detail):

Option No. 2

Build a stable source of non-standard voltage using three-terminal voltage stabilizers. Schemes to the studio!


What do we see as a result? We see a voltage stabilizer and a zener diode connected to the middle terminal of the stabilizer. XX are the last two digits written on the stabilizer. There may be numbers 05, 09, 12, 15, 18, 24. There may already be even more than 24. I don’t know, I won’t lie. These last two digits tell us the voltage that the stabilizer will produce according to the classic connection scheme:


Here, the 7805 stabilizer gives us 5 Volts at the output according to this scheme. 7812 will produce 12 Volts, 7815 - 15 Volts. You can read more about stabilizers.

U Zener diode – this is the stabilization voltage on the zener diode. If we take a zener diode with a stabilization voltage of 3 Volts and a voltage regulator 7805, then the output will be 8 Volts. 8 Volts is already a non-standard voltage range ;-). It turns out that by choosing the right stabilizer and the right zener diode, you can easily get a very stable voltage from a non-standard range of voltages ;-).

Let's look at all this with an example. Since I simply measure the voltage at the terminals of the stabilizer, I do not use capacitors. If I were powering the load, then I would also use capacitors. Our guinea pig is the 7805 stabilizer. We supply 9 Volts from the bulldozer to the input of this stabilizer:


Therefore, the output will be 5 Volts, after all, the stabilizer is 7805.


Now we take a zener diode for U stabilization = 2.4 Volts and insert it according to this circuit, it is possible without capacitors, after all, we are just measuring the voltage.



Oops, 7.3 Volts! 5+2.4 Volts. Works! Since my zener diodes are not high-precision (precision), the voltage of the zener diode may differ slightly from the nameplate (voltage declared by the manufacturer). Well, I think it's no problem. 0.1 Volt will not make a difference for us. As I already said, in this way you can select any value out of the ordinary.

Option #3

There is also another similar method, but here diodes are used. Maybe you know that the voltage drop across the forward junction of a silicon diode is 0.6-0.7 Volts, and that of a germanium diode is 0.3-0.4 Volts? It is this property of the diode that we will use ;-).

So, let's get the diagram into the studio!


We assemble this structure according to the diagram. The unstabilized input DC voltage also remained 9 Volts. Stabilizer 7805.


So what's the outcome?


Almost 5.7 Volts;-), which was what needed to be proven.

If two diodes are connected in series, then the voltage will drop across each of them, therefore, it will be summed up:


Each silicon diode drops 0.7 Volts, which means 0.7 + 0.7 = 1.4 Volts. Same with germanium. You can connect three or four diodes, then you need to sum the voltages on each. In practice, more than three diodes are not used. Diodes can be installed even at low power, since in this case the current through them will still be small.

The 12 Volt voltage is used to power a large number of electrical appliances: receivers and radios, amplifiers, laptops, screwdrivers, LED strips, etc. They often run on batteries or power supplies, but when one or the other fails, the user is faced with the question: “How to get 12 Volts AC”? We will talk about this further, providing an overview of the most rational methods.

We get 12 Volts from 220

The most common task is to obtain 12 volts from a 220V household power supply. This can be done in several ways:

  1. Reduce voltage without a transformer.
  2. Use a 50 Hz mains transformer.
  3. Use a switching power supply, possibly paired with a pulse or linear converter.

Voltage reduction without transformer

You can convert the voltage from 220 Volts to 12 without a transformer in 3 ways:

  1. Reduce the voltage using a ballast capacitor. The universal method is used to power low-power electronics, such as LED lamps, and to charge small batteries, such as flashlights. The disadvantage is the low cosine Phi of the circuit and low reliability, but this does not prevent it from being widely used in cheap electrical appliances.
  2. Reduce the voltage (limit the current) using a resistor. The method is not very good, but it has a right to exist; it is suitable for powering some very weak load, such as an LED. Its main disadvantage is the release of a large amount of active power in the form of heat on the resistor.
  3. Use an autotransformer or inductor with similar winding logic.

Quenching capacitor

Before you begin to consider this scheme, it is first worth mentioning the conditions that you must comply with:

  • The power supply is not universal, so it is designed and used only to work with one known device.
  • All external elements of the power supply, such as regulators, if you use additional components for the circuit, must be insulated, and plastic caps must be placed on the metal potentiometer knobs. Do not touch the power supply board or output wires unless there is a load connected to them or unless a Zener diode or low DC voltage regulator is installed in the circuit.

However, such a scheme is unlikely to kill you, but you can get an electric shock.

The diagram is shown in the figure below:

R1 - needed to discharge the quenching capacitor, C1 - the main element, the quenching capacitor, R2 - limits the currents when the circuit is turned on, VD1 - diode bridge, VD2 - zener diode for the required voltage, for 12 volts the following are suitable: D814D, KS207V, 1N4742A. A linear converter can also be used.

Or an enhanced version of the first scheme:

The rating of the quenching capacitor is calculated using the formula:

C(uF) = 3200*I(load)/√(Uinput²-Uoutput²)

C(uF) = 3200*I(load)/√Uinput

But you can also use calculators, they are available online or in the form of a PC program, for example, as an option from Vadim Goncharuk, you can search on the Internet.

Capacitors should be like this - film:

Or these:

It makes no sense to consider the remaining listed methods, because Reducing the voltage from 220 to 12 Volts using a resistor is not effective due to the large heat generation (the dimensions and power of the resistor will be appropriate), and winding the inductor with a tap from a certain turn to get 12 volts is impractical due to labor costs and dimensions.

Power supply on mains transformer

A classic and reliable circuit, ideal for powering audio amplifiers, such as speakers and radios. Provided that a normal filter capacitor is installed, which will provide the required level of ripple.

In addition, you can install a 12 volt stabilizer, such as KREN or L7812 or any other for the desired voltage. Without it, the output voltage will change according to voltage surges in the network and will be equal to:

Uout=Uin*Ktr

Ktr – transformation coefficient.

It is worth noting here that the output voltage after the diode bridge should be 2-3 volts greater than the output voltage of the power supply - 12V, but not more than 30V, it is limited by the technical characteristics of the stabilizer, and the efficiency depends on the voltage difference between the input and output.

The transformer should produce 12-15V AC. It is worth noting that the rectified and smoothed voltage will be 1.41 times the input voltage. It will be close to the amplitude value of the input sinusoid.

I would also like to add an adjustable power supply circuit on LM317. With it, you can get any voltage from 1.1 V to the rectified voltage from the transformer.

12 Volts from 24 Volts or other higher DC voltage

To reduce the DC voltage from 24 Volts to 12 Volts, you can use a linear or switching stabilizer. Such a need may arise if you need to power a 12 V load from the on-board network of a bus or truck with a voltage of 24 V. In addition, you will receive a stabilized voltage in the vehicle network, which often changes. Even in cars and motorcycles with an on-board 12 V network, it reaches 14.7 V when the engine is running. Therefore, this circuit can also be used to power LED strips and LEDs on vehicles.

The circuit with a linear stabilizer was mentioned in the previous paragraph.

You can connect a load with a current of up to 1-1.5A to it. To amplify the current, you can use a pass transistor, but the output voltage may decrease slightly - by 0.5V.

LDO stabilizers can be used in a similar way; these are the same linear voltage stabilizers, but with a low voltage drop, such as AMS-1117-12v.

Or pulse analogues such as AMSR-7812Z, AMSR1-7812-NZ.

Connection diagrams are similar to L7812 and KRENK. These options are also suitable for reducing the voltage from the laptop power supply.

It is more effective to use pulsed step-down voltage converters, for example, based on the LM2596 IC. The board is marked with contact pads In (input +) and (- Out output), respectively. On sale you can find a version with a fixed output voltage and with an adjustable one, as in the photo above on the right side you see a blue multi-turn potentiometer.

12 Volts from 5 Volts or other reduced voltage

You can get 12V from 5V, for example, from a USB port or a mobile phone charger, and you can also use it with the now popular lithium batteries with a voltage of 3.7-4.2V.

If we are talking about power supplies, you can interfere with the internal circuit and edit the reference voltage source, but for this you need to have some knowledge in electronics. But you can make it simpler and get 12V using a boost converter, for example based on the XL6009 IC. There are options on sale with a fixed 12V output or adjustable ones with adjustment in the range from 3.2 to 30V. Output current – ​​3A.

It is sold on a finished board, and there are marks on it with the purpose of the pins - input and output. Another option is to use MT3608 LM2977, it increases to 24V and can withstand output current up to 2A. Also in the photo you can clearly see the signatures for the contact pads.

How to get 12V from improvised means

The easiest way to get 12V voltage is to connect 8 1.5V AA batteries in series.

Or use a ready-made 12V battery marked 23AE or 27A, the kind used in remote controls. Inside it is a selection of small “tablets” that you see in the photo.

We looked at a set of options for getting 12V at home. Each of them has its own pros and cons, varying degrees of efficiency, reliability and efficiency. Which option is better to use, you must choose yourself based on your capabilities and needs.

It is also worth noting that we did not consider one of the options. You can also get 12 volts from an ATX computer power supply. To start it without a PC, you need to short-circuit the green wire to any of the black ones. 12 volts are on the yellow wire. Typically, the power of a 12V line is several hundred watts and the current is tens of amperes.

Now you know how to get 12 Volts from 220 or other available values. Finally, we recommend watching this useful video

How to assemble a simple power supply and a powerful voltage source yourself.
Sometimes you have to connect various electronic devices, including homemade ones, to a 12 volt DC source. The power supply is easy to assemble yourself within half a weekend. Therefore, there is no need to purchase a ready-made unit, when it is more interesting to independently make the necessary thing for your laboratory.


Anyone who wants to can make a 12-volt unit on their own, without much difficulty.
Some people need a source to power an amplifier, while others need a source to power a small TV or radio...
Step 1: What parts are needed to assemble the power supply...
To assemble the block, prepare in advance the electronic components, parts and accessories from which the block itself will be assembled....
-Circuit board.
-Four 1N4001 diodes, or similar. Diode bridge.
- Voltage stabilizer LM7812.
-Low-power step-down transformer for 220 V, the secondary winding should have 14V - 35V alternating voltage, with a load current from 100 mA to 1A, depending on how much power is needed at the output.
-Electrolytic capacitor with a capacity of 1000 µF - 4700 µF.
-Capacitor with a capacity of 1uF.
-Two 100nF capacitors.
-Cuttings of installation wire.
-Radiator, if necessary.
If you need to get maximum power from the power source, you need to prepare an appropriate transformer, diodes and a heatsink for the chip.
Step 2: Tools....
To make a block, you need the following installation tools:
-Soldering iron or soldering station
-Pliers
-Installation tweezers
- Wire strippers
-Device for solder suction.
-Screwdriver.
And other tools that may be useful.
Step 3: Diagram and others...


To obtain 5 volt stabilized power, you can replace the LM7812 stabilizer with an LM7805.
To increase the load capacity to more than 0.5 amperes, you will need a heatsink for the microcircuit, otherwise it will fail due to overheating.
However, if you need to get several hundred milliamps (less than 500 mA) from the source, then you can do without a radiator, the heating will be negligible.
In addition, an LED has been added to the circuit to visually verify that the power supply is working, but you can do without it.

Power supply circuit 12V 30A.
When using one 7812 stabilizer as a voltage regulator and several powerful transistors, this power supply is capable of providing an output load current of up to 30 amperes.
Perhaps the most expensive part of this circuit is the power step-down transformer. The voltage of the secondary winding of the transformer must be several volts higher than the stabilized voltage of 12V to ensure the operation of the microcircuit. It must be borne in mind that you should not strive for a larger difference between the input and output voltage values, since at such a current the heat sink of the output transistors increases significantly in size.
In the transformer circuit, the diodes used must be designed for a high maximum forward current, approximately 100A. The maximum current flowing through the 7812 chip in the circuit will not be more than 1A.
Six composite Darlington transistors of the TIP2955 type connected in parallel provide a load current of 30A (each transistor is designed for a current of 5A), such a large current requires an appropriate size of the radiator, each transistor passes through one sixth of the load current.
A small fan can be used to cool the radiator.
Checking the power supply
When you turn it on for the first time, it is not recommended to connect a load. We check the functionality of the circuit: connect a voltmeter to the output terminals and measure the voltage, it should be 12 volts, or the value is very close to it. Next, we connect a 100 Ohm load resistor with a dissipation power of 3 W, or a similar load - such as an incandescent lamp from a car. In this case, the voltmeter reading should not change. If there is no 12 volt voltage at the output, turn off the power and check the correct installation and serviceability of the elements.
Before installation, check the serviceability of the power transistors, since if the transistor is broken, the voltage from the rectifier goes directly to the output of the circuit. To avoid this, check the power transistors for short circuits; to do this, use a multimeter to separately measure the resistance between the collector and emitter of the transistors. This check must be carried out before installing them in the circuit.

Power supply 3 - 24V

The power supply circuit produces an adjustable voltage in the range from 3 to 25 volts, with a maximum load current of up to 2A; if you reduce the current-limiting resistor to 0.3 ohms, the current can be increased to 3 amperes or more.
Transistors 2N3055 and 2N3053 are installed on the corresponding radiators; the power of the limiting resistor must be at least 3 W. Voltage regulation is controlled by an LM1558 or 1458 op amp. When using a 1458 op amp, it is necessary to replace the stabilizer elements that supply voltage from pin 8 to 3 of the op amp from a divider on resistors rated 5.1 K.
The maximum DC voltage for powering op-amps 1458 and 1558 is 36 V and 44 V, respectively. The power transformer must produce a voltage at least 4 volts higher than the stabilized output voltage. The power transformer in the circuit has an output voltage of 25.2 volts AC with a tap in the middle. When switching windings, the output voltage decreases to 15 volts.

1.5 V power supply circuit

The power supply circuit to obtain a voltage of 1.5 volts uses a step-down transformer, a bridge rectifier with a smoothing filter and an LM317 chip.

Diagram of an adjustable power supply from 1.5 to 12.5 V

Power supply circuit with output voltage regulation to obtain voltage from 1.5 volts to 12.5 volts; the LM317 microcircuit is used as a regulating element. It must be installed on the radiator, on an insulating gasket to prevent a short circuit to the housing.

Power supply circuit with fixed output voltage

Power supply circuit with a fixed output voltage of 5 volts or 12 volts. The LM 7805 chip is used as an active element, LM7812 is installed on a radiator to cool the heating of the case. The choice of transformer is shown on the left on the plate. By analogy, you can make a power supply for other output voltages.

20 Watt power supply circuit with protection

The circuit is intended for a small homemade transceiver, author DL6GL. When developing the unit, the goal was to have an efficiency of at least 50%, a nominal supply voltage of 13.8V, maximum 15V, for a load current of 2.7A.
Which scheme: switching power supply or linear?
Switching power supplies are small-sized and have good efficiency, but it is unknown how they will behave in a critical situation, surges in the output voltage...
Despite the shortcomings, a linear control scheme was chosen: a fairly large transformer, not high efficiency, cooling required, etc.
Parts from a homemade power supply from the 1980s were used: a radiator with two 2N3055. The only thing missing was a µA723/LM723 voltage regulator and a few small parts.
The voltage regulator is assembled on a µA723/LM723 microcircuit with standard inclusion. Output transistors T2, T3 type 2N3055 are installed on radiators for cooling. Using potentiometer R1, the output voltage is set within 12-15V. Using variable resistor R2, the maximum voltage drop across resistor R7 is set, which is 0.7V (between pins 2 and 3 of the microcircuit).
A toroidal transformer is used for the power supply (can be any at your discretion).
On the MC3423 chip, a circuit is assembled that is triggered when the voltage (surge) at the output of the power supply is exceeded, by adjusting R3 the voltage threshold is set on leg 2 from the divider R3/R8/R9 (2.6V reference voltage), the voltage that opens the thyristor BT145 is supplied from output 8, causing a short circuit leading to tripping of fuse 6.3a.

To prepare the power supply for operation (the 6.3A fuse is not yet involved), set the output voltage to, for example, 12.0V. Load the unit with a load; for this you can connect a 12V/20W halogen lamp. Set R2 so that the voltage drop is 0.7V (the current should be within 3.8A 0.7=0.185Ωx3.8).
We configure the operation of the overvoltage protection; to do this, we smoothly set the output voltage to 16V and adjust R3 to trigger the protection. Next, we set the output voltage to normal and install the fuse (before that we installed a jumper).
The described power supply can be reconstructed for more powerful loads; to do this, install a more powerful transformer, additional transistors, wiring elements, and a rectifier at your discretion.

Homemade 3.3v power supply

If you need a powerful power supply of 3.3 volts, then it can be made by converting an old power supply from a PC or using the above circuits. For example, replace a 47 ohm resistor of a higher value in the 1.5 V power supply circuit, or install a potentiometer for convenience, adjusting it to the desired voltage.

Transformer power supply on KT808

Many radio amateurs still have old Soviet radio components that are lying around idle, but which can be successfully used and they will serve you faithfully for a long time, one of the well-known UA1ZH circuits that is floating around the Internet. Many spears and arrows have been broken on forums when discussing what is better, a field-effect transistor or a regular silicon or germanium one, what temperature of crystal heating will they withstand and which one is more reliable?
Each side has its own arguments, but you can get the parts and make another simple and reliable power supply. The circuit is very simple, protected from overcurrent, and when three KT808 are connected in parallel, it can produce a current of 20A; the author used such a unit with 7 parallel transistors and delivered 50A to the load, while the filter capacitor capacity was 120,000 uF, the voltage of the secondary winding was 19V. It must be taken into account that the relay contacts must switch such a large current.

If installed correctly, the output voltage drop does not exceed 0.1 volt

Power supply for 1000V, 2000V, 3000V

If we need to have a high voltage DC source to power the transmitter output stage lamp, what should we use for this? On the Internet there are many different power supply circuits for 600V, 1000V, 2000V, 3000V.
First: for high voltage, circuits with transformers for both one phase and three phases are used (if there is a three-phase voltage source in the house).
Second: to reduce size and weight, they use a transformerless power supply circuit, directly a 220-volt network with voltage multiplication. The biggest drawback of this circuit is that there is no galvanic isolation between the network and the load, as the output is connected to a given voltage source, observing phase and zero.

The circuit has a step-up anode transformer T1 (for the required power, for example 2500 VA, 2400V, current 0.8 A) and a step-down filament transformer T2 - TN-46, TN-36, etc. To eliminate current surges during switching on and protection diodes when charging capacitors, switching is used through quenching resistors R21 and R22.
The diodes in the high-voltage circuit are shunted by resistors in order to uniformly distribute Urev. Calculation of the nominal value using the formula R(Ohm) = PIVx500. C1-C20 to eliminate white noise and reduce surge voltages. You can also use bridges like KBU-810 as diodes by connecting them according to the specified circuit and, accordingly, taking the required amount, not forgetting about shunting.
R23-R26 for discharging capacitors after a power outage. To equalize the voltage on series-connected capacitors, equalizing resistors are placed in parallel, which are calculated from the ratio for every 1 volt there are 100 ohms, but at high voltage the resistors turn out to be quite powerful and here you have to maneuver, taking into account that the open-circuit voltage is higher by 1, 41.

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