Many gardeners prefer garden chrysanthemums. These are colorful flowers that can decorate any plot or flower bed until late autumn. They give bright colors to gardens during their flowering, which begins in July. Chrysanthemums are white, yellow, pink in color, they have a bitter aroma.
Reproduction of chrysanthemums is carried out by growing from seed, cuttings, or by dividing the bushes. In their reproduction, a vegetative method is used to preserve all the qualities of the plant, expressed by the size, terryness, color and shape of the bushes. From the seed, these flowers are propagated in breeding, to breed new species.
The division of the bush is a simple method in the reproduction of perennial chrysanthemums. Such a breeding process is carried out in the first half of June or at the end of August until the beginning of autumn (during September). To divide the bush, the strongest, healthiest and most beautiful flowers with well-developed inflorescences are selected. Preference should be given to bushes that pests have not reached.
Reproduction of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush
The number of parts into which the bush is divided is determined by the characteristics of the variety, as well as the number of years of mother plants. A three-year-old bush is able to produce 5-6 cuttings. To get "delenki", uterine bushes are dug up and divided into parts that have a root system with shoots. They are planted in open ground conditions, placed in wells with fertilizer, and well watered.
If reproduction occurs in the autumn, then young bushes will need to be covered for wintering with oak branches, needles or branches of thorny bushes without foliage.
With the help of cuttings
The first cutting method
The bush is pruned low in the fall, then it is dug up, stored in a room where it is dark and cool. The excavated bush is sprinkled with sand. So you can save it until the end of winter until the month of February, not forgetting about the regularity of watering.
At the end of winter (February), the plant is moved to another room with an average temperature of at least 15 degrees Celsius and planted in fertile soil. The planted bush is watered and after a week it is fed. For this purpose, ammonium nitrate is suitable. Experts recommend highlighting plants so that the rays of light fall on them from above. After the start of active growth, you can do cuttings.
Reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings
The cuttings are cut with a sharp knife, leaving about 10 centimeters in length and three to four knots. The nodes are the places where the leaves are attached to the stem. On the part that remains, you need to save about 2 - 3 leaves, so that after a few weeks shoots begin to appear. They will be used in cuttings.
Cut cuttings are carefully examined, the strongest, which have elastic bases, are left for reproduction.
Before planting in the soil on the cuttings, the lower leaves are cut off, the upper ones must be shortened by a third from the leaf plate.
The cuttings are planted at a temperature of 18 - 20 degrees Celsius, on the eve they are placed in containers filled with soil mixture. The mixture is prepared by combining sand, garden soil with humus (proportion 2:1:1). On top of the soil is poured with a three-centimeter layer of river sand.
The container with the cuttings should be covered with a film so that the distance from the film to the top of the bush is at least 30 centimeters. Awaiting rooting. Watering occurs carefully, spraying the soil cover in clear weather 2-3 times a day.
After 2 - 3 weeks, when the plants are rooted, the film can be removed from them. After seven days, the seedlings must be transplanted into containers with a soil mixture obtained by combining turf, humus and sand (2: 2: 1).
When 5-6 leaves grow on the cuttings, pinching is carried out to accelerate growth with the development of bushes.
Cuttings need to be fed twice a month, for this you need to use a solution of nitrate. In sunny weather, the plant needs to be shaded.
Before planting a bush of chrysanthemums in open soil, they need to be hardened off (10 to 12 days before transplanting). In the process of hardening, the plant is taken out to an open area, covered with a film at night. After frost has passed, seedlings are planted in a prepared place.
Second way
This method is used in open ground conditions (May - June). The chrysanthemums that you have selected are well covered with spruce branches in the autumn, with preliminary hilling in humus mixed with earth and sand. In the spring, the warming cover is removed, the humus is leveled. Starting from April, when the plant reaches 13 - 15 centimeters in height, it is cut into cuttings of 6 - 7 centimeters in length.
The cuttings are planted on a raised bed in fertile garden soil, river sand is poured on top.
Then all this is covered with a film stretched over an arcuate frame. When warm, the film must be removed. If the growing conditions are observed, then by the end of May - the beginning of June, the cuttings can be transplanted into flower beds.
With the help of seeds
This method is applicable for growing perennial chrysanthemums, as well as annual flowers. Most often, they resort to it for the propagation of Korean chrysanthemums.
Reproduction of annual chrysanthemums by seeds
If we talk about reproduction by seeds of annuals, then the seed is sown directly in the beds on the open ground. You can do this at the end of spring. The best time is the month of May. Holes are made in the soil, the distance between them should be at least 20 cm. Then the holes are watered using warm water. After that, two seeds are planted in each hole and lightly sprinkled with soil. Over the holes, you can stretch the garden film to create a greenhouse effect, which will give better heating and retain moisture. When the first shoots appear, the film is removed, and the soil is very carefully loosened. Weeds are being removed.
After seven days, you can "feed" the plants using a diluted liquid fertilizer like "Rainbow" or "Ideal" for this purpose. After the sprouts reach a height of ten centimeters and several leaves appear on them, it is necessary to thin out. In each hole, one of the strongest and most developed plants should remain. The rest can be transplanted to another bed. The disadvantage of this method is late flowering. Chrysanthemums will please them only in August. For earlier results, you should resort to growing seedlings.
Reproduction of perennial chrysanthemums by seeds
Perennial chrysanthemums are recommended to be propagated by seeds through seedlings. It must be grown in a heated room. With this method of reproduction, planting of seed should be carried out in the last days of February or the first of March.
Seeds are planted in an earthen mixture, which is filled with small boxes. To prepare the mixture, greenhouse soil, peat and humus are taken in equal parts. The mixture is preliminarily sifted and calcined (steamed) at a temperature of at least one hundred and ten degrees Celsius. You can use ready-made soil purchased from one of the many flower shops. At the bottom of the box, a drainage layer of expanded clay or gravel is poured. Above it is moist soil. Seeds are scattered on the surface of the soil and lightly pressed against it with the palms. Spraying is carried out with warm water poured into a spray bottle. The boxes are covered with foil. They are left warm (the room should be at least 25 degrees Celsius). Drawers are opened regularly for ventilation and irrigation. Drying out of the soil is unacceptable!
After two weeks, shoots will appear. They should be rearranged to a well-lit place and begin to accustom to environment, gradually increasing the length of time the seedlings stay without a film. After the appearance of several leaves on the plants, they must be transplanted into separate boxes or cups. When transplanting, try not to damage the roots. Weakened and underdeveloped plants are discarded. The strongest ones sit at the right depth in the same soil that was used for sowing. The transplant should be completed by spraying the seedlings with a preparation like Zircon or Epin-Extra in order for the plants to take root better.
The next one and a half months, necessary for the chrysanthemum sprouts to reach a height of twenty centimeters, are regularly watered, fed with fertilizers twice a month, illuminated if necessary. When the air on the street reaches a constant temperature equal to +16 degrees Celsius and above, the plants are equipped in a greenhouse to get better lighting and harden them.
At the end of May, young chrysanthemums can be transplanted to a permanent place. The main thing is to make sure that there will be no return of frost. The planting site should be sunny and the soil fertile. These flowers do not tolerate stagnant water. This should be taken into account when choosing a place for their landing.
With the help of layers
This breeding method is good for winter-hardy varieties or home chrysanthemum. Reproduction by layering is carried out by dropping the stem.
It is best to perform the procedure in the autumn. A groove is dug next to the bush, corresponding in terms of width and depth to the size of the bush itself. The stem is laid on the bottom of the groove and pinned with a staple. Sprinkle 20 centimeters of loose soil on top. In this form, it is left for the winter.
In the spring it will be possible to see how young shoots have appeared, having their own root system. After the frost retreats, the earth is raked and the stem is divided into parts so that each has strong and developed roots. After that, each part cut off from the stem - the shoot - can be planted where it will grow constantly.
With the help of cuttings from a bouquet
If you want the presented bouquet of chrysanthemums to find a second life, you can plant your favorite flowers. This method of reproduction is similar to cuttings. Use cuttings from a bouquet to propagate chrysanthemums.
Choose your favorite plants from the bouquet. Pinch off all the leaves from them, remove the flowers. Don't forget to pinch the top. Leave the resulting cuttings in a container of water. Over time, they will take root.
Decide on a planting site. It should be sunny and protected from winds and drafts. If you plan to grow in a container, then choose a wide diameter (at least 30 cm.). Holes should be made in the bottom area to ensure the drainage of excess moisture. As a soil, a purchased slightly acidic mixture is suitable. Cover the bottom with a drainage layer of expanded clay. On the eve of planting the cuttings from the bouquet, moisten the soil abundantly and enrich it by adding mineral fertilizer.
Plant plants, keeping a distance of 35 to 50 centimeters between the cuttings. If planting in open ground conditions, do not forget to cover the seedlings with a film that will protect them from temperature extremes.
Chrysanthemums will delight you with their luxurious flowering, responding to your attention and care for them!
Flower growers often experiment with new specimens, changing annuals and planting new species. But chrysanthemums grow in almost every garden. A wide range of color variations and species of these chic plants will decorate any flower bed or window sill.
The favorite of summer residents - chrysanthemum - reproduces quite easily. Cutting is a simple process that is also subject to beginners. Of course, there is a need for certain knowledge on how to carry out this action in spring, summer or autumn.
The autumn breeding process is convenient for people involved in the cultivation of chrysanthemums for commercial purposes - for sale. Spring is more suitable for gardeners, and summer for lazy people.
Therefore, this article will consider all the information about cuttings of chrysanthemums, not only in autumn, spring or summer, as well as the reproduction of flowers from a bouquet.
Features of autumn cuttings of chrysanthemums
Late cuttings of chrysanthemums - in the fall - implies the presence of flowering seedlings in the spring. If you carry out the procedure in November, then in late March - early April, the plants will already bloom. This period is far from suitable for all species, and the time is far from ideal. But the reproduction of chrysanthemums in the fall is quite successful. If all recommendations are followed, the survival rate of flowers will be 100%.
The mother liquor is a source bush from which cuttings will be harvested. He needs additional preparation before cuttings. The process consists in cutting off almost the entire ground share from the bush before the onset of the first frost. After such a cardinal haircut, let him stay in the soil for a couple more weeks. Next, the mother liquor is dug up and moved to a container corresponding to its size. The rhizome is covered with earth. Instead of soil, clean sand can be used. Next, the chrysanthemum hides in a cellar or other cool dark room. The main thing is that the temperature does not exceed +7 ° C. If it is warmer, the shoots of chrysanthemums will hatch ahead of time.
Watering is very important. During the wintering of the mother liquor, its roots need a moist environment. If the cellar is damp, then watering is not required. It is only necessary to periodically check whether the earth is dry, otherwise the plant will most likely die. It is also not worth excessively moistening - the rhizome will begin to rot.
If, after digging up the chrysanthemums, they are transferred to the greenhouse, the first shoots will appear very soon. Cuttings in the fall should be carried out when the height of the "beginners" reaches at least 8 cm. The shoots should be picked off from the root, and not cut off. It is in this process that the main feature lies, leading to the 100th survival rate of chrysanthemums. One mother bush can supply 20-25 cuttings.
spring breeding
The cutting procedure can take place in the spring. It is not much different from autumn. A bush that has just wintered in the cellar is taken out to heat and shoots up to 8 cm long are expected to form. Usually, shoots appear after a week of the mother liquor being warm.
Unlike the autumn method, it is better to cut off the cuttings during spring cuttings. You should choose those after which there will still be a couple of leaves. In this case, new shoots will appear faster on the resulting stump. They will also come down to breed.
Too small processes are weak and may not take root, so you do not need to touch them. Prepared cuttings are cut a little - a pair of the lowest leaves is removed. There is no point in cutting off the top.
Planting cuttings
The soil prepared for sprouts should be well watered. If the stalk is large, there should be at least 5 cm in radius between the seedlings. Plants are deepened by 1.5-2.5 cm. It is not necessary to plant everything in one container; local settlement in cups is also acceptable. One way or another, when the bushes form, they will have to be relocated. Three cuttings planted in one pot will become a bush.
If the first days of the life of the cutting in the new soil are carried out at room conditions, it must be covered with a film. It is logical to assume that greenhouse cultivation excludes the presence of additional shelter with polyethylene.
Summer and cuttings of chrysanthemums
The easiest way to propagate these flowers. Sometimes it’s enough just to stick the cutting into moist soil and that’s it. There is a more complex but reliable process. Everyone knows that the stiff part of the plant is more difficult to take root than the green, softer part. Therefore, for reproduction, upper sprouts with a length of no more than 15 cm are used.
You need to plant flowers in the shade or make it specially for them. Regular spraying of sprouts with water will give them strength, but do not forget to water them. In a couple of weeks, the chrysanthemums will come to life and begin to grow.
A whole science based on our own experience and practice is cuttings. What is the difference between cuttings in the fall and propagation at other stages of the growing season, how to hold an event and avoid mistakes - a reminder to the grower, tips, questions and answers.
What is the difference is not an idle question. Autumn grafting is fundamentally different from spring-summer - and literally: root is used for reproduction, it is also basal growth, shoots growing from the mother rhizome.
In the warm period, semi-lignified parts of the stem are used as material for grafting, in autumn - shoots that awaken from root buds.
When to expect flowering when cutting chrysanthemums in the fall? When carrying out the procedure at the end of October, followed by planting in closed ground, flowering occurs approximately at the beginning of April. When planting the harvested material in the spring, flowering will occur the next year or at a later date.
Flower growers in early autumn also practice the usual green cuttings of chrysanthemums. The method can be recommended solely as an experiment: not all varieties at this stage of the growing season are suitable for propagation.
Preparation: how to properly prepare cuttings
As a mother liquor for cuttings, healthy bushes with flawless inflorescences are chosen. After flowering, the aerial parts are removed before the onset of frost - the shoots are cut to the ground level or a “stump” 5 cm high is left. The bushes are sprinkled with peat chips mixed with humus or peat mixed with sand, earth.
After 12-14 days, the bush is dug up, placed in a greenhouse, cellar - in any darkened room. The temperature of the maintenance of bushes prepared for grafting is not more than + 7 ... + 8 ° C.
Attention! To awaken the root buds, the moisture content of the substrate is important, but its excess is fraught with rotting of the rhizome. In practice, watering is not required in a damp cellar.
When is the right time to take cuttings of chrysanthemums? At the moment when about 2-3 internodes are formed on the root shoots, and the shoots themselves reach from 7-8 to 10-12 cm.
In the process of cutting
The sequence of actions is as follows:
- Basal shoots 7-8 cm high are separated from the mother bush.
- The main young shoot is cut into cuttings, the lateral ones are not used. The length of each is 5-8 cm. The upper leaves are removed, the lower ones are shortened by half.
- Rooting will be facilitated by immersing the cutting in a solution of any proven growth stimulator - heterouxin, bioglobin, root, etc.
- Planting material is seated in containers with a substrate, dusting the cut with charcoal. The height of the substrate layer is from 5-6 cm. Chrysanthemum cuttings should be deepened to a depth of 2.5-3 cm.
- Planting pattern 3 × 4 cm - plants should not touch crowns as they develop.
- A layer of river sand or perlite is poured over the substrate in half with coarse sand. Its height is up to 2-3 cm;
- In order for the soil mixture to “fit” properly, it is well shed.
Chrysanthemums are easily propagated by cuttings. There are many options for preparing a soil mixture for grafting, from those used by flower growers:
- fertile soil (chernozem), sand, humus 2:1:1/2;
- peat, soddy land, coarse sand 1:1:1;
- leaf ground, turf, coarse sand 1:2:1;
- sandy soil, peat, compost (vermicompost) 2:1:1.
Attention! Planted densely seedlings are stretched, the roots begin to intertwine - you should keep a distance. The leaves of rooted neighboring plants should barely touch.
Cuttings of chrysanthemums in the fall, depending on the variety, will give within 20 bushes.
Cutting Care
Caring for the "cutting":
- in the room where the grafting is carried out, the temperature is maintained within + 15 ... + 17 C and up to + 18 ... + 20 ° C;
- plants for 2-3 weeks, until full rooting, are kept under a polyethylene cover. The height between the tops of the plants and the film is about 30 cm;
- it is important to carry out spraying - in sunny weather it is sprayed 2-3 times a day;
- top dressing is carried out - with saltpeter with the addition of organic matter, complete mineral fertilizer. The frequency of top dressing during cuttings is 2-3 times a month;
- on especially sunny days in the first week after cuttings, the plants are shaded.
Advice! If cuttings have been carried out, but it is not possible to plant the material in pots, it can be stored in a dry cellar, veranda at a temperature of + 7 ... + 10 ° C. You can store in slightly moistened sand, tyrsa. It is important to monitor the humidity, while avoiding excess.
At the end of rooting, the film is removed. After 5-7 days, the cuttings are planted in glasses, pots up to 200-300 ml. At the stage of 2-3 leaves, the seedlings are pinched to enhance branching. The next pinching is carried out when the branching side shoots reach 8-12 cm.
Cuttings are planted in open ground only until the end of September, and only in the southern regions. Planted after hardening, when the active growth of the top of the shoot begins. If we are talking about closed ground, the temperature is reduced in a room with chrysanthemums. If we are talking about planting rooted cuttings in the spring, then they are stored, digging in, in a cool cellar, on an unheated veranda, balcony, etc., maintaining the humidity of the substrate.
Planted after abundant watering, at the same depth as it was in pots, according to the scheme 20-25 × 30-35 cm, watered, then mulched.
Autumn cuttings: the "classic" method
And for adherents of "traditional" vegetative propagation by green cuttings, who want to propagate a valuable variety. What should be a candidate for cuttings:
- escape choose the required length. With earlier rooting, longer ones are harvested, 7-8 cm, sometimes up to 15 cm. With later m, 5-6 cm long;
- cuttings are subject to shoots with 2-3 internodes and from 3-4 leaves - this is a minimum;
- there should not be lignified tissues on the base - the shoot should not be too soft, but not rough either.
Advice! Do not choose: with short internodes, lignified. The weak and, having messed up, "fattening" do not fit.
Long segments are cut - up to 15 cm, using the middle part of the shoot for grafting. It is better to make a cut above the kidney oblique, above the kidney - straight. The top sheet is cut to half, the bottom sheet is removed. After removing the leaves, it is useful to leave the cuttings in the growth stimulator for 10-12 hours.
Root rudiments are formed in 2-3 weeks, after four to five weeks a shoot rudiment will form. Next, seedlings of chrysanthemums are planted in a greenhouse in a permanent place, or rooted cuttings are stored until spring.
As you can see, the autumn cuttings of chrysanthemums are different in approach, but not in complexity. The disadvantage of the method is lunges at low temperatures, with excess moisture. The survival rate of young bushes is low. With late cuttings in open ground, they are planted only in the conditions of the south.
For whom is autumn cuttings suitable? First of all, for those who practice the commercial cultivation of the last autumn flowers out of season - in greenhouses, greenhouses. Enthusiasts looking for new ways to work with plants. Practitioners conducting cuttings with subsequent planting in the spring. And to everyone else who loves chrysanthemums.
How to propagate chrysanthemums: video
For many flower growers, especially beginners, information on how chrysanthemums are propagated by cuttings in the fall is always relevant. While this is a simple and cost-effective process, there are some important guidelines to keep in mind when doing it to get a good result. You can propagate the plant not only in autumn, but also in spring or summer.
Soil preparation
To successfully grow chrysanthemums from cuttings, you will need to prepare a good potting mix. When planting in cups, seedling containers or on a garden bed in a greenhouse, purchased peat, forest soil with sand (1: 1) or perlite mixed with sand in equal amounts will do. All compositions have the qualities necessary for culture - good moisture and air permeability.
You should also take care of the acidity of the soil. Decorative chrysanthemum grows poorly and blooms poorly on acidic soil. To reduce acidity, slaked lime, crushed chalk or dolomite flour can be added to the soil.
When planting in fertile, slightly acidic soil, any grower, even a beginner, can get a chrysanthemum from a cutting.
spring
For cuttings of chrysanthemums at home, you will need a strong mother bush with no signs of damage by diseases and pests.
Plant preparation
Harvesting of the uterine bush is carried out in the fall. After the end of the growing season, the entire above-ground part of the plant is cut off, the roots are dug up and, together with an earthen clod, are placed in a capacious pot. The voids are filled with a mixture of garden soil and sand, trampled down, watered and placed in a dark, cool and damp room (basement or cellar).
If you do not have such a place, you can place a flowerpot with a plant in any room where the temperature does not exceed 7 ° C. In heat, the plant may begin premature growth of shoots and bud break.
Watering
In the winter season, in order to prevent the earthen clod and roots from drying out, the plant is moderately watered. It is important that the flower does not stand in damp ground, which can lead to its death. Therefore, the soil should be moistened only after it dries. In a damp room, watering may not be necessary.
Timing
Breeding of chrysanthemums by cuttings is carried out in the first or second decade of March. 2 weeks before the planned transplant, the mother liquor is brought into heat to stimulate the formation of young stems. The plant is watered abundantly, and after 10 days it begins to massively develop young stems.
Procurement of cuttings
The cuttings are cut after they reach a height of 10 cm. It is important that at least one pair of leaves remain on the stumps, then new stems suitable for further cuttings will form on them.
On harvested shoots, the lower leaves are removed, the upper ones are left untouched.
Landing Rules
Before planting, the soil is watered with warm water at room temperature. Then they dig holes at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other. Shoots are planted to a depth of no more than 2 cm; with deeper embedding, they often rot.
Some flower growers plant shoots in disposable cups one at a time, others plant three in flowerpots to get a lush and profusely flowering bush.
If rooting is carried out at home, the cuttings should be covered with a transparent film or glass. Through such a shelter, you can monitor the process of germination of planting material and the condition of the soil.
When planting in a greenhouse, shelter for planted shoots is not required.
Subtleties of care
For propagation of chrysanthemums by cuttings, a drug that stimulates root growth is not required. The stems take root well without it, but for this they should provide certain conditions:
- daily irrigation from a spray bottle and watering as the soil dries out;
- temperature regime within + 17-19 ° С.
Under such conditions, rapid rooting of the cuttings is possible - in 3-3.5 weeks they will begin to grow green mass.
Shelter is removed only after the appearance of new leaves. Further care for young plantations consists in regular fertilizing with mineral fertilizers - 1 time in 2 weeks. Also, the bushes should be watered, sprayed and periodically loosen the soil around them.
In summer
It is best and much easier to cut chrysanthemums in the summer - in order for the shoot to take root, it is enough to stick it into fertile and well-moistened soil. But experienced flower growers are advised to adhere to the general rules of summer cuttings in order to get a healthy and lushly flowering bush as a result.
- The lower part of the cutting, which has already become lignified, takes root much worse than the green young part, therefore, for grafting chrysanthemums, it is better to use apical shoots about 15 cm long. Side stems are also good planting material, the main thing is that they have leaves and 1-2 buds.
- Planting of stalks is carried out on loose, humus-enriched soil. At first, young plantings will need protection from the scorching sun, so they are immediately planted in partial shade or provide shade when planted in a sunny place.
- In order for rooting to be successful, the plants are often, but moderately watered, sprayed, the soil is loosened after watering.
After 3 weeks from the moment of disembarkation and regular care, you will notice how the stems started to grow.
After the development of 2-3 pairs of leaves, they are pinched, then, upon reaching a height of 10 cm, the apical shoots are pinched again. This will ensure rapid branching and the formation of a dense crown near the shrub.
Autumn cuttings
Cuttings of chrysanthemums in autumn are more preferred by those flower growers who grow this crop for sale. For such reproduction, ready-made, flowering bushes obtained in the spring will be required.
Chrysanthemums have a good survival rate, so they can be cuttings not only in early, but also in late autumn.
The bush is cut, dug up two weeks before the onset of autumn frosts and, together with an earthen clod, is transferred to a greenhouse or to another warm place. After 2 weeks of being warm, numerous sprouts will appear on it.
Before dividing the plant into parts, it is abundantly watered with warm water. The shoots are separated from each other with roots and planted in fertile soil in pots, seedling boxes or in a greenhouse in the garden.
After propagation of chrysanthemums by cuttings in autumn, plantings require careful care:
- immediately after planting, the cuttings are fertilized with a solution of ammonium nitrate (10 g of the substance per 5 l of water);
- carry out regular watering and spraying;
- loosening the soil a day after each watering;
- the introduction of complex dressings for ornamental flowering plants with a frequency of 1 time in two weeks;
- to avoid evaporation of moisture, the cuttings are mulched with peat or humus.
As soon as the shoots release 3-4 pairs of leaves, they are pinched to stimulate branching and the formation of a dense crown in future bushes. The second pinching is carried out at the stage when the plants reach 10 m in height. After pinching twice, the bushes take on a compact shape and become resistant to adverse weather conditions.
With the advent of spring, when the threat of the last frost has passed, the bushes are transplanted into a flower garden to a permanent habitat.
Reproduction from a bouquet
To breed a chrysanthemum with cuttings from a bouquet, it is enough to put a few stems in water and wait until they release the first roots. This can take a long time, so do not rush to throw away the shrunken shoots.
To speed up the process of root formation, it is necessary to prune the apical shoots that contain flower buds, and also remove the lateral processes. So the stems will transfer all the energy and nutrients to the development of the lower part.
The further process of planting rooted stems is similar to the usual chrysanthemum cuttings.
Post transplant care
Regardless of the season and place of cuttings of chrysanthemums, after planting in open ground, young bushes require competent care, thanks to which you can achieve maximum decorativeness from plants.
Humidity and watering
This culture does not respond well to frequent waterlogging and may die growing in an area with a close occurrence of groundwater. Therefore, when transplanting germinated cuttings, a suitable place should be prepared and good drainage should be provided.
Watering is required moderate and only after the earth dries out. This is a plant that is better under-watered than over-watered. Warm, soft water is used to moisten the soil. Water under the root, trying not to wet the leaves and inflorescences.
Crown shaping and pruning
To create a lush and compact crown, you should periodically pinch the apical shoots. The crown can be made in any shape, it all depends on your preferences.
The first pinching for small-flowered varieties is carried out in early July - the main branches are pinched. In August, young growth is plucked. Regardless of the variety, the stepping procedure is not carried out on this plant.
To prolong flowering as much as possible, the bush should be freed in time from withered and dried flower buds, which take away nutrients. Also, yellowed, dried and rotten leaves are to be removed - both for hygiene purposes and to stimulate the growth of young foliage.
Before the onset of cold weather, the plant is trimmed, leaving stumps up to 10 cm high. Then they are covered with fallen leaves, spruce branches or humus.
Support
For tall varieties, it is required to install supports in advance to avoid breaking off long and fragile shoots. Wooden stakes or metal bars are used as supporting devices.
Supports should be used to support tall flowers
Loosening and mulching
During the period of active vegetation, plants require a loosening procedure, which is carried out during the removal of weeds. During the period of budding and active flowering, chrysanthemums are mulched with a thick layer of humus or garden soil. A thick layer of mulch protects the bushes from freezing. As mulch, peat, garden soil or humus is used.
fertilizers
To grow chrysanthemums from cuttings strong and blooming luxuriantly, they should be provided with good nutrition. Top dressing of a pot or street culture is carried out in three stages.
- The first fertilizer is applied in early spring and always before the formation of flower buds. Bushes are fed with mineral preparations with an increased dose of nitrogen, or nitrogen and complex mixtures are used in a 1: 1 ratio.
- The second meal is carried out during the budding period. To do this, use special fertilizers for ornamental flowering plants, mineral preparations or potassium-phosphorus supplements.
- The third and final feeding of the bushes is carried out after the plant blooms magnificently. Use phosphorus-potassium supplements or fertilizers for ornamental flowering plants.
Additionally, the nutrition of the bushes is carried out in a foliar way. For the treatment of the aerial part, growth stimulants are used. The aerial part is sprayed until the buds swell and during the period of active flowering.
Part of the mineral top dressing for chrysanthemums can be replaced with organic fertilizers - compost or last year's manure.
In the process of applying root fertilizers, it is important not to wet the stem and lower foliage of the plant, which can get burned.
Rejuvenating treatment
Every third year, the plant should be moved to another place in the flower garden, because the bush grows, and the soil for its development and flowering becomes scarce. As a result, the flower becomes vulnerable to many diseases and pests, loses its decorative effect.
A bush is transplanted in the spring - in April or May - and is combined with the procedure for cutting chrysanthemums. Only in this case, the cuttings are not cut, but divided into parts along with the roots.
Shelter before winter
This perennial culture does not tolerate wintering well, therefore it needs good protection. First, the plants are mulched, then sprinkled with sawdust or fallen leaves.
Bushes that have poor frost resistance are cut off, then transplanted into a pot or bucket and transferred to a cool room for wintering. Flowers are stored in such conditions until spring, and after spring frosts they are returned to their original place in the flower garden.
Some varieties with a long flowering period can delight with their beauty until late autumn. To protect the inflorescences, the aerial part is covered with any non-woven material - agrofiber or burlap.
Diseases and pests
In case of damage, the flower is sprayed with insecticides if it is in a non-residential area. In apartment conditions, it is better to use homemade non-toxic products - garlic infusion, ash-soap solution or tobacco infusion.
In the fight against the nematode, which also likes to feast on the roots of a flower, only transplanting a bush with the removal of damaged roots and their subsequent treatment with insecticides will help. For transplantation, use a new container or an old disinfected one and always a new substrate.
Of all the diseases, chrysanthemum is plagued by powdery mildew, rust, gray rot, and mold. Fungicides are used to control these diseases. The number of treatments depends on the degree of damage.
For the purpose of prevention, one should keep a distance when planting bushes, regularly remove weeds, periodically loosen the soil, and remove and burn the affected organs in time.
To increase immunity, bushes need to optimize care - water, fertilize, cut and replant on time.
Reproduction of chrysanthemum by cuttings is a simple process, even the most inexperienced grower can master it. The main criteria for the success of this process are the choice of high-quality material, the preparation of a good substrate, proper planting and timely care. In return, you will get a beautiful decorative flowering plant that will become a perennial decoration of your garden or flower garden.
» » » How to propagate chrysanthemum with cuttings in any season
Cuttings are one of the most effective ways to propagate garden chrysanthemums. The main advantage of the method is that in this way it is possible to obtain planting material even from rare spherical, large flowers taken from a bouquet. Varietal characteristics are preserved in 100% of cases, which cannot be said about sowing seeds. Learn how to properly propagate garden or bouquet chrysanthemums with cuttings at home, how to select and cut a flower.
All varieties of the flower are propagated in several ways: by seeds, dividing the bush, layering and cuttings. All options are quite simple, knowing a few nuances, even someone who has never encountered the cultivation of this flower will cope with them. Amateur gardeners, for certain reasons, prefer vegetative propagation of chrysanthemums, in order to understand why, we will analyze each method.
Reproduction by seeds
If you want from your own collected seeds, be prepared for the fact that the plant most likely will not show the varietal characteristics of the parent plant. The seed purchased from a trusted company will give varietal offspring, but some of the grains may not hatch. You should not buy seeds from open containers in spontaneous markets. How to sow seeds outdoors:
- carry out a shallow digging of the area allocated for chrysanthemums;
- dig small holes (up to 5 cm deep) at a distance of 30 cm from each other;
- pour each hole with warm water and put 3-5 grains in it;
- sprinkle the seeds with earth and make a small greenhouse over the crops. You can insert several pegs around the perimeter and pull on transparent polyethylene;
- as soon as the first shoots appear, remove the shelter;
- periodically loosen the soil and remove weeds;
- 10 days after spitting seeds, carry out the first top dressing, flower growers use universal fertilizers such as Rainbow;
- when the seedlings grow to 8–9 cm in each hole, leave 1 or 2 of the strongest sprouts, transplant the rest to another place or share planting material with neighbors.
On a note!
Seed propagation of chrysanthemums is in demand only among breeders, amateur flower growers use it extremely rarely. The option is less reliable than vegetative methods.
It is desirable to propagate by seeds only small-flowered and annual varieties of chrysanthemums. With early spring sowing in open ground, the bushes will bloom no earlier than mid-autumn, so that the buds open in the summer, planting through seedlings should be carried out. The procedure is carried out from mid-February to early March. How to germinate chrysanthemum seeds at home:
- lay a layer of drainage on the bottom of a wide, shallow container, pour a special soil mixture for chrysanthemums into the container;
- spread the seeds on the surface of the soil in any order, but do not overdo it with the number of grains. If the varieties are annuals, sprinkle them a little with earth, and if they are perennials, lightly press them into the soil;
- spray the crops with warm water from a spray bottle, cover the container with polyethylene or glass. Periodically remove the shelter for ventilation;
- the first shoots will appear in about 10 days, transfer the containers to the lightest window sill and gradually begin to harden the seedlings. Open the window first for an hour, gradually increase the time;
- thin out sprouts at the stage of formation of 3 or 4 leaves. Before planting in open ground, seedlings are plentifully watered.
Watering at all stages of seedling development should be carried out regularly, but moderately. Do not allow waterlogging and drying of the soil, use only warm, settled water. The temperature in the room with seedlings before hardening should be about + 22–26 degrees. Top dressing with Zircon will help speed up the rooting process of chrysanthemums after picking. When using fertilizer, the temperature in the room is lowered to + 15–19 degrees. Transplanting seedlings of flowers to a permanent place is carried out after the last spring frosts.
Reproduction by dividing the bush
A chrysanthemum that has been growing in one place for more than 3 years is recommended to be planted. Carefully dig up the entire bush, it is important not to damage the root. Cut off the old lignified shoots with a sharp garden knife or secateurs, separate the young branches from the mother bush along with the roots. If there are long branches on the stems, it is better to cut them carefully. Plant each plot at a distance of 30-35 cm from each other. The procedure is carried out in late spring or in the second half of August.
Reproduction by layering
The method is suitable for indoor, as well as for garden winter-hardy varieties of chrysanthemum. Dig a small, oblong hole near the mother plant, the width and depth of the hole should correspond to the size of the bush. Gently bend the flower stems and fix them with pegs or staples at the bottom of the prepared hole, cover with a layer (about 25 cm) of earth, leave the bush in this form for the winter.
On a note!
On the forums, it is often advised to cover the area with buried chrysanthemum bushes, especially in cool regions. This procedure makes sense only in the case of the most heat-loving varieties.
In the spring, after the plants awaken from the buds, new, already rooted shoots will hatch. When the return frosts have passed, dig out the mother bush and separate each stalk along with the root, transplant to a new place. Do not throw away layers with a poorly developed root system, transplant them, like the rest, with proper care they will quickly catch up with stronger shoots in growth.
Propagation by cuttings
The rarest and most valuable varieties are best propagated by cuttings. The Korean variety of the flower, when bred by division, may not take root well in a new place. Cuttings of this variety take root perfectly, retain species features, and quickly adapt after planting. Flowers grown from green, non-lignified cuttings are resistant to low temperatures and diseases, have a lush crown and rich flowering.
Gardeners divide seasonal cuttings into 2 types: early and late. The first ones are prepared in the fall, germination is carried out in the winter (from January to the end of February). Such cuttings take root for 30 days. The second ones are cut in April or May, they take root in 7 or 14 days. Experts advise to start harvesting cuttings in late autumn, or at the beginning of winter (in warm regions) when the first frosts seize the soil. Features of autumn cuttings:
- varieties with small flowers take root before large-flowered ones;
- thick, fleshy shoots take root poorly;
- flowers of the same variety, when rooting early and late cuttings, will bloom at the same time;
- the period of grafting strongly affects only the habit of the bush; higher shoots grow from early cuttings.
Some gardeners cut flower cuttings in the first half of autumn, when the bushes are just beginning to bloom. This method can be recommended solely as an experiment, because not all varieties and hybrids of the flower are ready for reproduction by this moment. Bushes grown from cuttings can bloom in spring or autumn, in rare cases the next year after planting in open ground, much depends on the variety and germination conditions.
When and how to carry out cuttings
One way of grafting involves the advance preparation of the mother bush, from which it will be possible to obtain planting material in the spring. Varieties with large buds give from 8 to 15 cuttings, and small-flowered chrysanthemum bushes - 20 or 30. The second option is to repeatedly pruning non-lignified stems from late spring to early autumn.
Preparation and storage of the mother bush
In late autumn (before the onset of persistent frosts), cut off all the stems from the selected mother bush, leave stumps about 5 cm. 10–15 days after cutting, dig up the bush and place it in a container of suitable size together with a clod of earth. Exposed roots, as well as possible voids, cover with soil or sand. Move the container to a dark, cool room.
Attention!
Make holes in the bottom of the container for the mother liquor in advance and lay a layer of drainage from 2 to 5 cm, you can use vermiculite, broken stone or expanded clay.
If you transfer the mother liquor to a greenhouse or any other warm room, the first stems will appear in a couple of weeks. If you want to keep the mother liquor until spring, transfer it to the basement or cellar; in a city apartment, any dark place will do, where the temperature does not rise above +7 degrees. If the temperature regime is not observed, the kidneys will hatch ahead of time.
If the chrysanthemum bush is stored in a damp basement, frequent watering is not necessary. Moderate moisture is permissible only when the earth dries out, overflow will lead to rotting of the roots. To start cuttings in March, the mother liquor is transferred to a warm place in mid-February, watered abundantly, young shoots will hatch in 5-10 days. How to cut and root cuttings:
- when the shoots grow by 8–10 cm, cut them so that stumps with two pairs of leaves remain on the mother liquor. Thus, there will be a basis for the emergence of new stems;
- small cuttings are best left on the bush, they are prone to decay, choose the strongest specimens;
- 2 lower leaves are cut off from the cut stems (the buds are left);
- cuttings one by one, in pairs or 3 are planted in separate containers with moistened soil to a depth of 1.5 to 1.8 cm;
- in the case when a wide container is chosen for planting, the cuttings are placed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.
If desired, the tip of the shoots can be dipped into Kornevin, but the practice of those who have been breeding chrysanthemums for a long time shows that they take root perfectly without additional stimulation. During autumn cuttings, the shoots should not be cut from the mother liquor, but carefully separated along with the roots, such a procedure will guarantee 100% survival rate of the cutting.
So that the cuttings do not dry out, it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions for them. Cover small pots with transparent plastic cups, cover the bulk container with polyethylene so that the leaves and stems do not touch the covering material. The rooting process can take from 2 to 3 weeks, the kidneys wake up already 3-4 days after planting the cuttings.
Cuttings of flowering chrysanthemums
The procedure can be carried out throughout the growing season, the process is very similar to the cultivation of roses, hydrangeas and other garden flowers. The easiest option is to cut off any branch and dig it in the garden, but such experiments do not always end well. We invite you to familiarize yourself with step by step instructions propagation of chrysanthemum by cuttings of flowering shoots in autumn:
- cut the stems into cuttings 11-16 cm long, leave those that were closer to the root;
- cut off the 2 bottom sheets;
- put the resulting stems in a jar or glass of transparent glass, pour settled water (fill no more than 3 cm of the container);
- add to the water a small amount of a drug that stimulates the formation of roots - Kornevin, Ribav E, Heteroaksin, Kornerost or any other;
- put the cuttings on the windowsill, shade a little from direct sunlight.
Attention!
In the process of rooting the stems, water must be added as it evaporates; it is not necessary to completely change the liquid.
The cuttings will give roots in 30-40 days, while young shoots will begin to grow. It is undesirable to leave them in the water, part of the planting material may die before spring, and only single stems will acquire powerful roots. It is better to transplant the cuttings into a separate container with soil. Using too thin shoots, as well as an opaque container, will cause the rooting process to take much longer.
Cover the transplanted cuttings with plastic cups or plastic bags, periodically moisten the soil. You can remove a kind of greenhouse when the stems are completely rooted in the ground and start growing. As soon as the temperature is above +5 degrees outside, you can begin to harden the seedlings, take them out to the balcony or open the window for 15 minutes first, gradually increase the time.
Reproduction of bouquet chrysanthemums
The flower is usually cut in October-November, but is it possible to carry out the procedure at any other time of the year if you were presented with a bouquet of gorgeous chrysanthemums of a rare, incredibly beautiful variety? It is possible, because cuttings from bouquet flowers not only take root well, but also repeat varietal characteristics. Of course, you can search the catalogs for your favorite variety, order seeds or seedlings. The search will take time and financial costs, but why, if the planting material is already at hand.
How to choose a flower and what to do with it
If the bouquet has stems with small shoots, use them first. Cuttings from such shoots take root faster and grow well. In the case when there are no such flowers, take any, but prepare as many cuttings as possible, this will increase the likelihood of obtaining planting material. It is not necessary to cut fresh stems, on the contrary, it is better to wait until the flowers begin to wither. You can not take shoots with obvious traces of diseases, there is a risk that they will not take root, and they can pick up the disease houseplants.
All inflorescences, as well as the bottom of the cutting (about 4 cm) must be cut off. Remove all leaves and side branches from the remaining stem, do not cut directly at the stem, leave small stumps. Put the cutting in settled or boiled water, add a little root stimulator and an activated charcoal tablet, it will kill microorganisms that provoke the development of various putrefactive processes.
Roots will hatch in about 3-4 weeks, if they still do not appear, and the cutting has begun to rot, cut the bottom of the stem to healthy tissue, rinse the glass thoroughly, change the water and add again Activated carbon. As soon as the roots appear, the chrysanthemum should be immediately transplanted into a pot with soil. Don't worry if the stem starts to dry out, it's not a sign of spoilage.
Preparation of containers and soil
For only rooted cuttings, small pots should be chosen, they may not be deep, but they must be wide. In such a container, the chrysanthemum root will occupy a new area gradually, there will be no accumulation of excess moisture in unaffected areas of the soil, which means that the risk of decay or the appearance of pests will be minimized. It is necessary to transplant a flower into a large flowerpot when it grows well.
Attention!
When planting cuttings, do not use garden or garden soil, it may contain pest larvae and infections.
Chrysanthemums prefer loose, nutritious soil; poor, dense or heavy soil is not suitable for them. If you do not have the opportunity to purchase a special soil for chrysanthemums, prepare it yourself. Mix commercially available all-purpose potting, garden, and horticultural potting soil with perlite, sand, and coconut fiber. Adjust the amount of ingredients at your discretion, you need to get a light and loose mixture.
Planting and caring for rooted chrysanthemum
Plant the cuttings very carefully so as not to damage the roots. Pour soil into the prepared container up to half the volume, moisten it a little, place a twig in the middle and gradually cover it with earth. Lightly flatten the soil and water again with a little water. At first, it is better not to touch the chrysanthemum, cover the stalk with a jar or polyethylene, periodically moisten the ground.
A month later, seedlings can be fed with nitrogen fertilizers (a tablespoon of dry raw materials per 10 liters of water), they will activate growth. The young bush needs to select the lightest window sill; in the spring, the seedling should be shaded from the sun's rays. When the cutting takes root and actively grows, pinch the top a little, the plant will start lateral shoots, re-pruning after 2 months. At first, the chrysanthemum needs light even in winter, after planting in open ground, the flower adapts and begins to move into the dormant stage.