Free drawings of sliding gates. DIY sliding gates. How to make a cantilever gate with your own hands? What material are sliding gates made from?

There is a lot of incomplete information on the Internet about installing sliding gates with your own hands; after reading it, the progress of the work or the design of the sliding gate itself is not particularly clear.

In this manual, we will try to clearly demonstrate the installation of cantilever sliding gates inside and out, and help you calculate the height and width of the gate specifically for you.

To begin installation, you need drawings; there is no one drawing for all gates; it all depends on the width and height of the opening in the fence.

Accessories for sliding gates

The first thing you can start assembling the gate with is the fittings, but only after calculating the weight and dimensions of the gate, the fittings can be purchased separately or made with your own hands from bearings, the fitting kit includes:

1. the guide rail is usually 6 m long;
2. 2 roller bearings
3. 1 top roller bracket to prevent the gate from swinging;
4. 1 end roller;
5. 1 end roller catcher so that during windy conditions the gate is docked correctly and does not break the automation.

Additional accessories for fittings:

• Mounting and adjusting support for roller bearings.
• Mechanical lock.
• The rack is toothed.
• Fastening element for toothed rack.

Now about the load. There are different sets for different gate weights, see the table, it shows the relationship between the weight and width of the gate.

Opening width no more	Gate weight
4 m.	300 kg.
4 m.	400 kg.
4.5 m.	500 kg.
6 m.	600 kg.
10 m.	1000 kg.
12 m.	1200 kg.

This data will be useful to you when choosing accessories, but most craftsmen try to make all the parts with their own hands, since the kit is not cheap.

To make the fittings yourself, you need to know where and why they are attached, read about this below.

How to choose quality fittings

The main part, the rail guide, best choice there will be rails from a European manufacturer. A good quality part has a mirror-smooth surface and clear geometric shapes. The part must be galvanized and have no scale or rust on its surface. A high-quality guide has a metal thickness from 3.5 mm to 5 mm.

When choosing roller bearings, pay attention that they are made entirely of metal; plastic or rubberized ones will not last long. All geometric shapes of the metal must be correct; the slightest deviation indicates poor quality assembly.

As for the remaining metal parts, they must be coated with zinc, the shade of zinc must be uniform, the minimum thickness of the metal is 3-4 mm.

Sliding gate sizes

The cost of the fittings will depend on the size and weight of the sliding gate. The width is calculated in this way; another 50% of the width is added to the width of the opening in the fence. For example, your opening width is 4 meters, divide by 2, we get 2 meters + 4 meters opening width, the total length of the guide rail will be 6 meters.

To make it easier to understand and remember, I propose a formula and diagram:

• B - opening width;
• A - counterweight length;
• L is the length of the guide rail.

Once you have decided on the size of the frame, you can begin to manufacture it; the frame is made from a profile metal pipe 40x40x 2 mm and 40x20x2 mm for the internal lathing. For aluminum frames, a profile of 60 mm or more is used.

It is better to make the height of the gate frame equal to the length of the corrugated sheet. It is better to choose tougher corrugated sheeting. Before attaching the corrugated sheeting to the frame, drill holes in the frame that are half smaller than the diameter of the roofing screw, since the self-tapping screw may not drill through the profiled pipe of the frame; blind rivets can be used instead of self-tapping screws.

The width of the lower profiled pipe must correspond to the width of the guide rail.

If your gate width is more than 4 meters, then it is better to use rectangular pipes to assemble the frame base!

The photo below shows how to properly make a frame for different opening widths.

Gate foundation

It is quite easy to determine the size of the foundation, since it has a length equal to 1/2 the width of the opening, according to the formula:

• B - opening width;
• L - foundation length;

If everything is simple with the length of the foundation, then with installation we have many options.

The foundation can be made of the following materials:

• Monolithic U-shaped.
• Solid monolithic.
• From screw piles.

The installation of a monolithic foundation also has small features; you can use reinforcement welded to the channel, anchor bolts or long threaded rods.

Let's consider the option with a channel (power frame), it can be with one or two support posts or without them, in both cases the power frame is attached flush to the existing fence posts. The height of the support pillars corresponds to the height of the gate itself + the height of the roller supports. Using two support posts near the load frame is advisable for wide gates that sway strongly in the wind. If support pillars are not provided, then instead of them, metal mortgages are made into the stone fence.

In the photo, laying the foundation.

Scheme without metal racks.

Location of carrier rollers

In order to level the power frame on the opposite side, where the support post with the end roller catcher is located, step back 10 cm (the thickness of the post) from the fence and pull the cord to the last corner of the channel; along its entire length, the edge of the channel should follow the line of the cord.

Gate installation and adjustment

After the load frame is ready for use, align the roller supports and install the upper roller bracket; installation depends on the design of the bracket.

To determine in advance where to mount the lower trap, a guide rail without a gate is placed on the roller supports. The lower trap is designed not only to hold the gate horizontally, but also to remove the load from the roller supports; for this, the end roller must be rolled into the trap so that the gate is raised up by 3-5 mm.

If, after installing the frame, the end roller is too sagging, adjust the roller supports.

If everything is done correctly, but you have not achieved the correct operation of the sliding gate, then most likely you have a low-quality set of fittings, it is designed for a different weight, or the frame is assembled incorrectly, because of this the gate sag a lot and cannot fall into the lower trap.

After all the mechanisms described above have been adjusted, you can begin installing the automation. The video below shows how you can make an electric drive with your own hands.

Let's start with the rack, they come in metal and nylon, metal is naturally better and more reliable. Their thickness varies from 8 to 30 mm. The standard size of the slats is 1 meter. For fastening, use a number of rails equal to the width of the opening + 1 rail for automatic limit switches. The gap between the teeth of the drive gear and the rack should be 1-2 mm. The rack is attached to the lower pipe of the gate frame using a fastening element for the rack. The holes in the rail allow you to adjust its height.

The picture shows two options for fastening the gear rack; we do not recommend attaching the rack to the guide rail; during welding, the guide may bend if bolts are screwed into the guide; this can also cause difficulties during installation and during operation of the gate.

Often the fasteners are welded, although for their fastening there is a special C-profile for the rack. The photo below shows both options.

If you buy an electric drive, it will come with 4 meters of gear rack.

For those who do not want to spend money on a rack, it can be replaced with a bicycle chain or, as shown in one of the videos, with a chain from a Lada car.

Gate automation

Both sliding and swing doors can open automatically. Their operation is controlled using a remote control and switches installed in the house, and possibly at the gate. One remote control can operate not only gates, but also garage doors and even lights. Automatic drives consist of an electric motor, a moving rack and a control device. They can be purchased as a separate device, although it is better to order them together with the gate. Then you will be sure that the drive was selected correctly and there will be no surprises during assembly.

Sliding gates require one motor to move a rack attached to the bottom edge of the gate. And for sliding gates, two cylinders are required, one is attached to each of the leaves. The drive has a mechanism that allows you to open the gate in the event of a power failure. Modern drives can be powered by a battery charged from the mains or a solar panel. The gates open automatically and require the installation of devices that ensure the safety of their use. Photocells are needed, thanks to which the doors do not move when an obstacle appears in their path. A signal lamp installed in a visible place will indicate that the gate is opening or closing.

Selecting an electric drive

When choosing a drive, it is important that the gears of the gearbox are made of steel or brass, but not plastic or silumin. The second important element is the limit switch, it controls the points to which the gate can be opened and closed, the limit switch can be mechanical and reed switch (magnetic), as practice has shown, the mechanical one can freeze in winter. As a rule, the quality of drive parts depends on its power; the higher the power of the drive, the better its assembly. As for the carrying capacity, it is indicated in the documentation.

Basic drive configuration:

• 4 meters of rack;
• photocells;
• warning lamp;
• remote control and receiver;
• mounting plate.

For those who do not know what photocells are needed for, they are 2 sensors that are mounted on the edges of the gate. When an obstacle appears between the photocells, the gate opens or closes, depending on how you program the automation.

Automation installation

First of all, the mounting plate for installing the drive is welded or screwed; it is supplied complete with the drive; with its help, you can adjust the height and angle of the drive.

After installing the drive, magnetic sensors, photocells and a warning lamp are installed. As a rule, the drives are connected to the 220 network and, after software configuration, are immediately ready for operation.

In this article we will tell you about all the intricacies of construction and installation, as well as all the possible problems that you may encounter if you decide to make sliding gates with your own hands. When faced with the task of installing sliding gates for the first time, the biggest mystery seems to be the drawing of the sliding gate. In fact, the design of sliding gates is very simple, their installation diagram is also not complicated, and below we will describe the basic principles of installing sliding gates, after understanding which you will no longer have any questions about how to install them yourself. But first things first.

Sliding gates. We calculate the optimal opening width

This is the most important question that you must answer for yourself first of all. By the width of sliding gates we mean the width of the gate itself, i.e. free distance between gate posts when the gate is fully open. To answer this question you need to decide on just a few points:

• What kind of cars will enter through these sliding gates? Only cars? Gazelles? Tractors? Kamaz?
• At what angle will all these vehicles, especially trucks, enter?

According to my own feelings, sliding gates should be such a width that when driving through them, between the gate posts and the mirrors there is a gap of no less than 30 cm on each side (or better yet, 50 cm). And now some statistics about the width of some cars (including mirrors).

• Ford Focus 3 = 2.01 m.
• Ford Explorer 2015 = 2.29 m.
• Gazelle (all-metal van) = 2.5 m.
• KamAZ = 2.9 m.

Just don’t say that you have already built everything and no more trucks will ever enter your site. I assure you that in life there will be enough situations in which you will need to allow trucks onto your site. Now let's answer the question: at what angle can such cars approach you? According to statistics, the angle of entry of such vehicles into the site is 45 degrees to the goal line. See for yourself, the length of a typical KamAZ 65111 is 7.34 meters, and now go to the place on your site where you plan to install sliding gates, look at the space behind them and try to answer the question of whether the truck has enough space for to turn around and drive into your sliding gate at right angles to the goal line?

If we were right and the angle of entry of the truck is approximately 45° to the goal line, then according to the Pythagorean theorem, in order for a 2.9-meter wide KamAZ truck to pass into your gate at an angle of 45 degrees WITHOUT ANY GAP between the mirrors and gate posts, the width of the gate should be 4.1 meters. However, we do not recommend relying on this figure because, firstly, it does not take into account the gap, and secondly, there are situations when a car passing through the gate can either sway for some reason or slide to the side on snow or ice or dirt, slip and move to the side, etc. Based on these considerations, we recommend installing sliding gates with an opening width of at least 4.5 meters.

If we move from theory to practice, then our own experience suggests that the optimal gate width is 4.5 meters, and the ideal gate width is 5 meters.

Please note that everything written above concerned the width of the gate opening, but not the width of the gate leaf! If we talk about the door leaf, then there is one important point that needs to be taken into account. The width of the gate leaf should be approximately 20 centimeters greater than the width of the gate opening! Otherwise, when the gate is closed, you will have a gap noticeable at an angle to the plane of the gate (see photo below). If you forgot to ask for a gate leaf to be made a little wider than the planned opening width, you can correct the situation by installing the gate posts a little closer to each other than planned. This way you will reduce the width of the opening by about 15-20 centimeters, but will avoid the formation of a gap.

Sliding gates. Nuances with the height of sliding gates

It may seem to many that this moment is not worth attention or discussion at all, but this is not so. We partly agree. Indeed, ignoring this point will not create any significant problems for you. except aesthetic. Many people believe that if the height of the fence adjacent to the gate is 2 meters, then the height of the gate leaf should be 2 meters. In reality this is not the case. Let's look at an example:

• We have a fence made of corrugated sheet metal, 2 meters high and installed without tape and without a gap at the bottom. In this case, the profiled sheet rises directly from the ground to a height of 2 meters. (we published an article about installing a fence earlier: Fence posts. We build a fence with our own hands without mistakes)
• When ordering or making your own gate leaf frame, you are guided by the same profiled sheet, which has the same height as the fence - 2 meters, right?

Now let's see what happens as a result. In both cases, you are guided by the same height of the profiled sheet, but you do not take into account the fact that in the case of a fence, the profiled sheet starts directly from the ground and its upper edge is located at a height of exactly 2 meters above the ground. Moreover, in the case of gates, the lower edge of the sliding gate cannot touch the ground; it is raised approximately 10 cm from the ground.

To be fair, it should be noted that the gap between the ground and the bottom of the gate is adjusted using adjustment pads, which are included as standard in the roller kit (see photo on the right and photo below). The roller supports are put on and attached to the adjustment pads using nuts, and with the help of the same nuts, the installation height of the roller supports (and therefore the gate frame) can be adjusted within 5 cm. As a result, the minimum distance from the ground will be 10 cm, the maximum - 15 cm from the ground.

Go ahead. Unlike a fence, a gate profile sheet is usually inserted into the profile that makes up the frame of the gate leaf, and the profile is usually welded from a 60/40 mm rectangular pipe. The height of the gate has already reached: 100mm + 40mm + 2000mm + 40mm = 2180mm. But that’s not all, since a guide beam with a height of 60 mm (for gates weighing up to 350 kg) is welded to the door leaf from below. In total, taking into account the guide beam, the distance from the ground surface to the upper edge of the gate is already 2180 mm + 60 mm = 2240 mm. As you can see, according to calculations, the top edge of the gate was 24 cm higher than the top edge of the fence!

For reference: the sizes of the guide beams that come complete with rollers and other components for sliding gates vary (). Each kit has its own name and is used depending on the size and weight of the gate:

• MICRO set: sliding gates with an opening up to 4 m and weighing up to 300 kg inclusive; dimensions of the MICRO guide beam - height 55mm, width 60mm, thickness 3mm, standard length 4.5m / 5.3m / 6m;
• ECO kit: sliding gates with an opening of up to 5 m and a weight of up to 500 kg inclusive; dimensions of the ECO guide beam - height 60mm, width 70mm, thickness 3.5mm, standard length 5m / 6m / 7m;
• EURO set: sliding gates with an opening up to 6 m and weighing up to 800 kg inclusive; EURO guide beam dimensions - height 75mm, width 90mm, thickness 4.5mm, standard length 6m / 7m / 8m / 9m;
• MAX set: sliding gates with an opening up to 12 m and weighing up to 2000 kg inclusive; dimensions of the MAX guide beam - height 135mm, width 130mm, thickness 5mm, standard length 6m / 9m;

To avoid such an aesthetic mistake, the height of the sliding gate frame should be based not on the height of the filling profiled sheet, but on the height of the fence adjacent to the gate.

Sliding gates. Drawing and diagram of sliding gates.

Sliding gates They have such a simple design that you don’t need any drawing of the gate. Below we will explain to you the operating diagram of sliding gates, after which you can easily understand their design, what depends on what in it, what and how you can change in it at your discretion. So, the basis of the entire design of sliding sliding gates is 2 rollers and a guide beam moving along them (sometimes called a “guide rail”). Look at the photo below.

The guide moving along the rollers is the basis of the entire structure. The guide is welded from below to the gate frame and now the entire frame moves along the rollers. Since the rollers should not be in the gate opening, so as not to get in the way, they are moved to the side, outside the gate opening, and the sliding gates are accordingly lengthened with the so-called “counterweight”. The generally accepted design is one in which the length of the “counterweight” is equal to half the length of the gate opening. In other words, for a gate opening of 5 meters, the total length of the frame will be 5 + 5/2 = 7.5 meters. At the same time, 2.5 meters in this frame will be the same “counterweight”, which extends beyond the gate opening and rests on rollers.

Strictly speaking, it is generally accepted that the length of the gate counterweight is 1/3 - 1/2 the length of the opening. But we strongly recommend making the counterweight 1/2 the length of the gate opening. Why? Because people very often make a “lightweight” counterweight - a triangle (as in the figure below). As a result, not only do they reduce the length of the counterweight to 1/3 of the length of the opening, but they also truncate the “counterweight” to a triangle, thereby reducing its weight. In this case, it simply stops performing the function counterweight- it turns out too easy. As a result, the sliding gates will be “out of balance”, “peck” when closing and when fully opened, and all the loads fall on the rollers, which, as a result, fly out in 2-3 years, and not in 10 years, as they should . Bottom line: if the counterweight is “square”, then, in principle, 1/3 of the opening is enough. If “triangular” - then 1/2 of the opening. But the ideal option would still be the length of the counterweight equal to 1/2 the length of the gate opening.

That is why the basis for installing gates is the installation of rollers. It is the rollers that hold the entire structure and experience the greatest loads in comparison with all other structural elements of sliding sliding gates. These two rollers hold the entire gate leaf hanging over, so they are installed on a massive reinforced concrete foundation, into which, for convenience, a embedded part made of a channel is poured. This is done to simplify the subsequent installation of the rollers, and it is to this that the bases of the two rollers are subsequently welded, and even later - the base for attaching the motor of the recoil mechanism. (see photo above).

All other components for sliding gates carry virtually no force loads and serve to keep the gate leaf from swinging. All these components for sliding gates are shown below. Of these, the support rail (a square bracket with two rubber rollers), the lower catcher and the upper catcher are mounted on poles.

Let's look at the entire set of components needed to install sliding gates element by element. Look at the diagram below, where we have numbered all the elements. So, element by element according to the numbering in the diagram:

1. End cap for the rear of the guide. Its purpose is partly decorative, partly to prevent snow from getting inside the guide when the gate is rolled back in the winter if they roll back, raking the snow;
2. Support rail with two adjustable casters (square bracket with two rubber casters). It is installed in the upper part of the post (closest to the mortgage with supporting rollers) and simply holds the gate leaf in a vertical position from swinging and tipping over;
3. Upper catcher. It is installed on the “receiving” pole. The role of the catcher is to keep the gate leaf from swinging when the sliding gate is closed;
4. Bottom catcher. Almost the same as in the previous paragraph, but with a support platform onto which the support roller rolls when the sliding gate is completely closed. The point is not only to keep the sliding gate from swinging, but also to relieve the load on the drive rollers and guide, which experience strong bending loads when the gate is fully extended;
5. Support roller. This roller is both a damper and a plug for the front edge of the guide. When closing the gate, it rolls into the “lower catcher” (see previous point No. 4), dampens the impact of the closing gate leaf, rests with its roller on the support platform of the “lower catcher”, removing bending loads from the guide and the entire gate leaf;
6. Actually, the guide itself (or “guide rail”), thanks to which the sliding gate moves back and forth along the rollers (rollers on the sliding gate diagram under No. 7). As we have already written above, the guide is plugged on the rear side by element No. 1, and on the front side by element No. 5.
7. Support rollers with adjustable supports are elements that bear the main load and ensure rolling of sliding gates. In fact, these are the most powerful structural elements that require fastening to a solid foundation in the form of a mortgage, usually mounted on a reinforced concrete foundation.

Adjustment stands are used for:

• precise alignment of the roller supports along one straight line (if the rollers are not aligned in a straight line, they will wear out a lot. Without adjusting stands, the rollers are almost impossible to align exactly)
• adjusting the height of the gate relative to the ground (within 5 cm)
• the possibility of replacing worn-out roller bearings (if the roller bearings were welded to the mortgage without adjusting supports, then it would be problematic to replace them without the use of a welding machine “grinder”).

We install sliding gates. Mortgage, foundation, pillars.

For many, the embedded element raises many questions, since the shape and dimensions of this embedded part are unclear and everyone begins to look for its drawing. You don't need a drawing. The point of this element is only to prepare a kind of foundation on a concrete base for the subsequent installation of rollers and a gate drive using electric welding. Based on this, the shape does not matter at all, the dimensions can vary. Channels No. 10, 12, 14, 16, 20 are used as a mortgage. The more massive the sliding gate, the more powerful the channel. The mortgage should stand directly on the line of movement of the future gate leaf, the platform for the engine is shifted from this line into the yard.

Look at the photo below. As you can see, rollers are mounted on the embedded element (in the photo they are numbered 1 and 2). From the same photo it is clear that it would be more logical to move roller No. 2 to the right, closer to the right edge of the gate frame (the attachment point is determined when the gate is completely closed).

It would seem that ideally, roller No. 1 should stand at the very post (which is located in the photo on the left), and roller No. 2 should melt at the very edge of the guide rail, closer to the edge of the gate frame (in the photo on the right). This is almost true, but there is one caveat! The fact is that the guide beam has elements inserted inside at the edges. The edge of the beam farthest from the gate opening is closed with an end cap (number 4 in the photo), and an auxiliary support roller is inserted into the opposite edge (number 3 in the photo), which rolls into the lower catcher when the gate is closed. Therefore, rollers No. 1 and No. 2 must be installed at appropriate distances. The length of the embedded element can be equal to the length of the “counterweight” of the gate. That is, with a gate opening width of 5 meters and a “counterweight” width of 2.5 meters, the length of the mortgage can be approximately 2.3 - 2.5 meters. To install a drive with an electric motor in the future, weld a pad to the embedded element anywhere. On the other hand, you can not do this and subsequently weld a plate protruding to the side to the embedment on top and install the drive on it.

Now about the foundation. The foundation of sliding gates is perhaps the most important and critical part of the entire gate structure. First of all, a foundation is needed for a mortgage to which the main support rollers will be attached. Some companies and private teams offer a cheaper foundation option than reinforced concrete, namely, they suggest screwing in several screw piles, onto which a mortgage is then welded on top and almost everything is ready. Next, next to this bunch of piles, another one is screwed a little crookedly (since it is impossible to screw a whole bunch of piles exactly next to each other), under the post. We will not even consider this option. Perhaps it is suitable for small and light sliding sliding gates, for example, having a length of 3 meters with a light frame sheathed with corrugated sheets on one side, however, longer and heavier sliding gates will “walk” on such a foundation.

We believe that there is no alternative to a reinforced concrete foundation in this case, however, it can be poured in different ways. So, for example, on the Internet it is often proposed to pour either only one foundation - directly under the mortgage, or two separate ones, one of which is under the mortgage, the second - under the “receiving” pillar. This option is shown in the diagram below.

This option is much better than the idea of ​​using screw piles, however, having two separate foundations can end up in trouble, especially in cases where such foundations are not buried below the ground freezing level. The fact is that as a result of frost heaving, such separate foundations can move independently of each other. In this case, even with slight displacements relative to each other, everything may end up in the fact that the sliding gates will no longer fall into the catchers installed on the receiving post and you will have to constantly try to reconfigure the catchers. What if such deformations occur twice a year, for example at the beginning and end of winter? What if even more often? Do you want to devote your whole life to the eternal adjustment of gates on your site and become a guru in this matter? Personally, we don’t!

The solution to this problem is quite simple (but more expensive than two separate foundations) - both pillars must be connected by one common foundation. In this option, even in cases of displacement of the foundation, both pillars will ALWAYS be parallel to each other, moving in one bundle. Below we publish a photo of such a sliding gate foundation.

Sliding gate posts are installed before the foundation is poured with concrete. In the case of sliding gates, the pillars bear virtually no load other than wind. This means that the gate leaf usually has a high windage and during strong winds, the wind load is transferred from the gate leaf to the posts. If we talk about sufficiency, then for such gates it will be enough to take a 60x60x2mm pipe, however, for those who suffer from gigantomania just like us, we recommend making pillars from a 100x100x4mm pipe.

As to whether it is worth installing “U”-shaped pillars or regular ones, there is no consensus. The components for sliding gates described above can be installed on single posts without any problems. We prefer "U" shaped posts, but if you look closely at the photos in this article, you will see that we originally installed and poured single posts with concrete. At the same time, installing small embedded steel plates in the lower part, to which other pillars of a smaller cross-section than the main ones were subsequently welded. Thus, we made “U”-shaped ones from single pillars. “U”-shaped posts are preferable if you subsequently plan to install not only a gate drive, but also one that includes photocells. Firstly, it will be more convenient to install photocells on internal poles, and not on external ones (for anti-vandal reasons). Secondly, inside the internal pillars it will be convenient to conduct hidden wiring to the photocells and signal lamp. You can read more about this in our article "".

Sliding gates. Gate frame design.

It is better to weld the frame of sliding gates from metal. Structurally, it is welded from rectangular or square pipes of two sizes. Pipes of a larger cross-section are used as a load-bearing frame; the internal filling in the form of stiffeners is made from pipes of a smaller cross-section, for example 20 x 20 mm.

We suggest you choose the cross-section of pipes for the sliding gate frame depending on the weight and/or length of the gate, according to the tables presented below:

• Light gate lining (corrugated sheet, polycarbonate, mesh, Euro picket fence):
  
• Heavy gate lining (board, forged elements, metal square, etc.):
  

It is better to immediately weld the gear rack to the frame (or cylinders with threads for fastening the gear rack). Gear rack fasteners (threaded cylinders, 3 pieces per 1 meter of rack) come standard with it. Be sure to check this fact when purchasing! So that the automation can be installed later without any problems. Otherwise, it will be extremely inconvenient to weld it exactly to the very bottom of the gate. Its length should be at least 1 meter longer than the length of the opening. This extra 1 meter (or more) of the toothed rack protrudes onto the “counterweight” of the gate in order to always be in mesh with the gear of the gate drive motor. The rack is universal and fits 99% of drives (CAME, NICE, Dorhan, Alutech, etc.). If you are welding cylinders with threads for subsequent fastening of the gear rack, then it is better to weld them to the guide (guide rail) in advance, as shown in the two photos below.

Now pay attention to the photo of the sliding gate below. In this photo it is visually clear how strong the loads are on the rollers that actually hold the sliding gates and on which these gates roll. Keep in mind that if you decide to make a gate in a sliding gate (by cutting it directly into the gate leaf), then it should be done in that part of the gate that is located closest to the supporting rollers on which the sliding gate is held. If you decide to install a gate at the end of the door leaf farthest from the rollers, then you will further upset the balance of weight distribution, “increase the leverage” and the forces acting on the rollers.

Accessories for sliding gates

If we talk about components for gates, we would recommend components from the ROLTEK brand because they have proven themselves to be the most reliable ones offered on the market today. Gate components are usually kits, the same as in the photographs and diagrams in our article (above the text). These sets of components are divided by power, depending on the length and weight of the door leaf. You will find the best prices for components for sliding gates on our website in the “Discount Price Store” section => “”. Components for ROLTEK gates are divided as follows, as indicated in the table below:

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Advantages and disadvantages of this design

Advantages:

• This gate design does not interfere with the exit/entry of a vehicle in a small area. Cantilever doors can significantly save space.
• The presence of the lower fastening of the console system allows you to equip the gate in any climatic conditions.
• The finishing can be made of different materials, for example, vertical lathing, corrugated board, forging and more.
• Possibility of choosing a design option, for example, from a sandwich panel or corrugated sheet.
• Compared to other types of gates (for example, swing gates), there is no such thing as sagging hinges. The existing automation and gate closing/opening mechanism provides for a long operational period.
• It is possible to choose different automation for gates.

Flaws:

• Unlike other types of gates, for example, swing gates, the installation of sliding gates requires more financial costs, approximately 10–20%.
• To attach the console part and the drive, it is necessary to make an additional foundation.
• You will need to allocate sufficient space along the fence.

The gate design is divided into several types, each of which differs from each other:

1. Hanging. Since Soviet times, this heavy, but at the same time reliable design has gained immense popularity. In it, the canvas on roller trolleys is fixed to a beam, which is located above the passage, up to 5 m high. As a result, this height is a limitation when tall vehicles enter.
2. Console. This type of gate is ideal for climatic features Russia. This design is not equipped with a beam above the driveway. Such gates will not be able to be damaged by snow drifts, wind, dust, etc. Thus, the canvas is fixed to the beam using roller carts. In this case, the entire structure is fixed on a powerful foundation, which is poured on the side of the opening.
3. On screw piles. Metal piles are screwed into the ground to a depth of 1500 mm, which will support the entire structure. Their production and installation will take up to 3 days.
4. Mechanical. These gates are opened/closed manually. Mechanical ones are much cheaper in cost and easier to install. They are suitable for cases where a dacha or country house is rarely used.
5. Automatic. Such gates are the complete opposite of mechanical ones. They are equipped with an electric drive and remote control. The best option for regular use.

Regardless of the type of construction, sliding gates require free space along the fence on one side. In this case, it must be equal in size to the opening. As for console systems, the space should be 120–200% larger.

Gate calculation features

Design calculation is one of the most important and priority stages. You should not ignore this stage, since the construction of sliding ones is much more complicated than swing ones.

The calculation process includes the following steps:

1. Determining the height and width of the opening. As a result, it will be possible to select the required type of gate for free movement.
2. Estimation of the weight of the structure being constructed.
3. Making a sketch or drawing.

The calculation of the width and height of the structure should be based on the market range. So, if a profile or pipe can be easily welded, then cutting sheets of corrugated board for the purpose of adding it is very difficult. Plus, the result will be unaesthetic.

Moreover, understanding the final weight of the structure, appropriate mechanisms and moving parts are selected that can cope with the load.

If the canvas is supposed to be large, then be sure to take into account the wind load. Add a small margin to the existing wind force prevailing in your area.

Although the easiest option for obtaining calculations is to contact a specialized company that will provide a folder with drawings and calculations, you can do this yourself. It is worth immediately noting that all of the above calculations apply to cantilever-type sliding gates. They are more complex than all other types, so let’s look at them in more detail.

The gate width (L) will be equal to:

• opening width;
• technological opening/closing intervals;
• minimum distance between the centers of the carriages.

Based on this, L will be larger than the opening.

When moving, the doors must be balanced. This indicator is achieved by calculating the counterweight. Thanks to this, the specific gravity of the structure will be evenly distributed over the carriages. Accordingly, in order to have as little load as possible, the counterweight must be large.

But what if there is not enough space for the sash to move? In this case, it is necessary to understand that the length of the counterweight should not be less than 40% of the width of the sash. The ideal figure is 50%. As a consequence, the width L has a counterweight in its design.

Having such calculations, you can determine how much space is needed to roll back the gate along the fence.

This value is determined based on the weight of the material used:

• Corrugated sheeting ~ equal to 4 kg/m2.
• Steel, thickness 2 mm ~ 17 kg/m 2.

A gate with a 4x2 m frame will weigh on average 200 kg. Having such data, it is possible to determine the indicators of the guide beam. In this case, you can build on the established standard.

For a gate weighing 300 kg, a 9x5 cm beam with a thickness of at least 3.5 mm is sufficient. However, a safety margin of up to 40% is required. It will significantly simplify the operation of the gate and increase its service life.

The gate will require rollers, catchers and a support rail. Modern products of this type allow you to choose the desired design. As a basis, we will take the simplest estimate of the wind load, which is equal to 12 m/s to 90 kg/m2 and is evenly distributed over the support zones of the canvas.

How can you make sure that the structure you have made will work without interruption even in strong winds? To do this, it is necessary to ensure that the strength of the fittings is greater than the calculated weight of the gate. A lateral moment of 100 kg/m is also taken into account, multiplied by 8 kg/m, which equals 800 kg/m. In principle, this is not much ~ 150–180 kg/m for each supporting element.

When buying a roller mechanism, make sure that it has a margin of up to 30% in relation to the weight of the gate. But this indicator does not affect the service life in any way. This is directly affected by increasing the distance between the centers of the carriages.

In addition to all of the above, it is worth paying attention to other aspects. Pay attention to the gate rail, supports for roller carriages and the number of anchors. It is also important to correctly calculate the mortgages on the support pillars. In this case, it is necessary to start from 60% of the total mass of the gate, divided by the number of mortgages.

As for the calculation of the foundation, there are no special secrets here. But despite this, you should not lose sight of this component, because often the cost of the foundation reaches 40% of the total cost of the project.

This type of gate has the following structural elements:

• Guide beam. Takes on all their weight.
• Trolley or roller support. You need 2 of them.
• Removable end roller. When closed, it serves as a support.
• Upper/lower catcher. When the gate is closed, the lower one takes the load, and the upper one reduces the windage.
• Bracket. It is important for keeping the sash from swinging sideways.
• Stand. A support is installed on it, which organizes the movement of the sash.

Roller supports are installed on the foundation, which take on the load of the guide beam. The rollers are placed inside the supporting console.

Sash selection

The gate leaves are also subject to high demands. Its design must be sufficiently rigid and stable. This is important so that in the event of a strong gust of wind or ice, the sash functions well. Moreover, it must be equipped with additional stiffening ribs so that it does not sag under its own weight. All this should be taken into account when creating drawings.

The availability of certain components directly depends on the height and width of the sash, as well as its weight. So, today on the market you can find a number of companies that provide high-quality equipment, namely:

• Combi Arialdo and Flatelli Comunello from Italy.
• Roltek and Doorhan from Russia.
• Alutech from Belarus.

For example, let's do some calculations. In the basic configuration, a supporting rail with a length of 6 m is necessarily installed. And in order to choose the right components for it, it is necessary to take into account the length of the sash plus 40%. Selection is also carried out according to the length of the guide beam and possible loads. So, if the width of the opening is 3.8 m, then the length of the door is 3.8 m + 40% = 5.32 m. In this case, you can purchase a ready-made set with a 6 m beam.

If the opening width significantly exceeds 4 m, then the purchase of components should be guided by a load of 500 kg. In them, the guide beam has a wall thickness of 3.5 m and a cross-section of 71 × 65 mm. If the width is more than 6 m, then it is necessary to take a load of up to 600 kg into account.

Installation work

The movement of the canvas should be carried out from the inside of the site, namely along the fence. Based on this, it is necessary to prepare a place for the gate so that absolutely nothing interferes with this process.

The installation process includes 4 steps:

1. Electrical wiring.
2. Installation of a response pole.
3. Automation installation.

Stages of foundation construction:

• First, marking is carried out. Measure 500 mm from the fence (the width of the foundation). You also measure from the edge of the gate a distance equal to the rollback (the length of the foundation). So, you will see the perimeter of the future foundation.
• It is often possible to use fence support posts. If this is not possible, then a counter post should be installed on the opposite side. It must be installed so that it is inside the area, and not in the opening itself. Otherwise, it will reduce the width of the opening.
• If the gate will operate automatically, then be sure to organize a place for laying the wiring. To do this, you can use a square metal or plastic pipe/box. The diameter of the pipes is not less than 25 mm.
• Now you can start digging a pit. The depth of the trench is up to 2 m, below the soil freezing level (different in each region).
• To make the embedded element, you can use channel 16. Its length should correspond to the length of the trench. Reinforcement Ø12 mm is laid in the foundation. The reinforcement must be welded to the channel and connected with cross braces.
• Thus, the resulting embedded element is placed with the reinforcement down. When laying, make sure that the side of the channel is adjacent to the fence support post. Also, the channel must be set strictly level and exactly parallel to the gate opening line.

The embedded element must be flush with the road surface. The minimum gap allowed between the bottom edge of the gate and the road is 10 cm. This gap can be increased using an adjustment platform. But it will be impossible to reduce this gap without breaking the fastenings.

If for one reason or another a gap of 100 mm is not suitable, then install the embedded element deeply.

As for concrete work, it is carried out when the installation of the embedded element is completely completed. The concrete level should be flush with the embedded element.

Installation

When the foundation has hardened, you can begin installing the gate. To do this, you first need to make markings. Along the line of the opening, not reaching the counter post 30 mm, pull the cord. This cord is the gate's movement path. The height of the cord tension is 200 mm. Further work looks like this:

• Determine the extreme position of the first and second roller support. From the edge of the opening, step back 15 cm along the plane of the embedded element and draw a line for the position of the outermost first trolley. Calculate the line of the second cart as follows: measure the entire length of the gate with the cantilever part and subtract 10 cm from the edge of the return post along the plane of the embedded element. As a result, you will determine the location of the second cart.
• Now insert the roller supports into the supporting profile, placing them in the center.

Afterwards it is necessary to weld the second trolley of the adjustment platform. Then roll the gate leaf into the opening and make final position adjustments. Make small tack welds by welding the second adjustment pad, the resulting action looks like this:

• Remove the canvas from the roller cart.
• Next, remove the carts from the platforms.
• Weld the platforms to the embedded element.
• Attach roller carts to them.
• Slide the canvas onto the roller supports.
• Close the gate and use a wrench to adjust its position.

You make holes inside the supporting profile, this is necessary in order to install the cart correctly. To do this, loosen the top nuts securing the carts to the platforms. After that, roll the gate back and forth. If the sash moves freely, tighten the nuts. If there are some difficulties in moving the sash, then slightly loosen the fasteners and level out all the design flaws, for example, correct the distortions of the trolley.

• Now you need to install the end roller. It should be inserted into the supporting profile and the bolts should be tightened thoroughly. You also weld the end roller cover to the profile. This will allow the roller to act as an end stop in the case of manual gate operation. But in this case, fastening by welding will be much better than a bolt.
• As for the support profile plug, it is installed on the inside of the gate and welded in place. It is necessary to prevent snow from rolling under the rollers.
• Now the upper clamp is mounted to the rollers. Therefore, loosen the roller fasteners and install the brackets so that its side is directed towards the support post, and the rollers grip the top of the canvas. Taking this into account, press the bracket against the post and secure it.

At the next stage of work, the gate frame is covered. For this you can use profiled metal sheets. They must be cut to the size of the sash. Fastening is carried out with rivets or self-tapping screws. Each subsequent sheet is mounted with an overlap.

When the casing is completed, the lower/upper catcher can be installed. The lower catcher plays the role of reducing the load on the roller carts when closed. Therefore, they must be installed when the gate is loaded. Place the lower catcher under the end roller with the gate completely closed so that the supporting plane of the catcher is above the level of the end roller. As for installing the upper catcher, this process occurs in the same way.

Finally, all that remains is to install the automation. To do this, attach the rack, which means a universal part with an electric drive. It is usually included in the mounting kit.

The choice of automation directly depends on the weight of the gate:

• For an opening of 4 m, a drive of 500–600 kg is used.
• For an opening of 4–6 m, a drive is used – 600–1300 kg
• For cases with intensive gate opening, a drive of 1200–1800 kg is used.

Coloring

All metal elements The gate needs to be painted. Pre-degrease the surface. To do this, clean the surface and sand it with a sanding disc on a grinder. Wipe some areas, such as protected areas, with acetone. Now you can start priming. It is applied evenly. Moreover, the primer must be applied so that there are no drops or streaks. Thanks to such preparatory work, the paint will lie evenly. As a result, the entire gate structure will be completely protected from corrosion.

The paint should be applied in two layers and only after the first has completely dried.

To carry out all the work, you will need to have the following tool:

• Inverter welding material. Such a unit will not damage the metal.
• Bulgarian.
• Air compressor for painting.
• Pliers.
• Drill.
• Roulette.
• Level.
• Riveter.

If you do not have sufficient experience in performing such work, then there is a high risk of making some mistakes:

• Insufficient foundation preparation.
• Incorrect installation and fastening of all components.
• Incorrect weight of the gate for the load-bearing beam.
• If you hear a creaking sound, this is evidence of sand getting into the bearings.
• Do not allow paint to drip.
• Be sure to take into account the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise, the pillars may skew in one direction.

Video: making gates

Photo: options for finished sliding gates

Scheme

In the diagrams you can find many structural details for the manufacture of sliding gates:

Gates with a sliding or, as it is also called, a sliding system are an integral part of the structure intended for fencing a dacha and adjacent areas.

Today, the range of such designs is extensive, but many craftsmen want to make gates of this type on their own.

This is not only due to the economic point of view, but also due to the use of creative energy. Therefore, many people ask the question, how to make sliding gates with your own hands and in a short time?

Types of sliding gates

Recoil ones are produced in different types, which have their advantages and disadvantages.

Console gates

Cantilever gate design allows you not to limit the upper dimensions of the product, and also eliminates contact with the lower rail passing near the surface of the earth.

This is one of the most difficult structures to implement. The basis of such a gate is a console or, as it is also called, a channel. These devices hold the door of the structure when opening and closing the gate.

Modern gates with this type of movement lack lower and upper guides, which provides the car with free movement into the yard. The canvas is suspended on a special beam standing on rollers that move the surface of the product.

Roller blocks and a guide beam are usually placed in the lower section of the gate. Often there are similar sliding mechanisms with reinforcement of rollers and beams in the upper or even in the middle part.

Such placement is justified when we are talking about a wall with capital properties or a canvas with increased strength that can withstand the large weight of the structure.

For home use, it is best to do the bottom movement so that you do not have to carry out additional work to strengthen the wall.

This gate last longer than others, because the sliding structure fits completely into the guide grooves, which protect the product from the weathering of the external environment.

Cantilever gates are often equipped with an electric drive. It is attached between the roller carriages. The drive has a control unit and special devices to ensure safe movement.

Positive sides such gates are obvious:

For console systems there are disadvantages, but there are not many of them:

• the design of such gates is difficult to make with your own hands;
• installing a gate requires a free area for a gap, which is one and a half times larger than the opening itself. This is not always feasible;
• the need to create a strong foundation.

Hanging gates

Overhead sliding gates are popular in warehouses, businesses and garage docks. The principle of operation of such a mechanism is almost the same as that of conventional sliding gates, with only one difference - the guide beam is attached to the top of the opening.

When choosing elements for fastening the structure, you need to purchase only high-quality products.

It is recommended to choose a material suitable for this type of gate from steel with additional galvanization and PVC coating for resistance to negative natural factors.

The gate opens along the wall, so it does not require additional space on the inside or outside. If desired, this design can be equipped with an electric drive for ease of operation.

Advantages of sliding gates on a suspended basis:

1. Suspended designs significantly save space.
2. The strength of the gate allows it to withstand wind loads.
3. There is no need to additionally clear the entrance in front of the house from snow.

Roller structures

Gates with roller mechanism are more popular for entering the yard than in a garage, because the width of the garage wall does not always allow placing a solid sash and placing the entire mechanism to the side when the structure opens.

This is an ideal option for the yard due to the space saving and ease of use of the device. When you press the button, the roller mechanism is activated so that the fence moves to the side.

If you equip the device with automatic control, you can operate it using the remote control.

The gate structure consists of a guide profile attached to the bottom of the product, a roller mechanism on a bearing basis, a frame cloth and other elements that fasten and hold the structure.

Rail gates

The principle of operation of rail gates is to slide the protective cloth along the surface of a special rail located on the surface of the ground. The movement occurs due to the roller, welded to the bottom of the product.

Of all types of gates with a sliding system rail mechanism is the simplest and most popular. It is often used at entrances to private homes.

Such a mechanism has a number of advantages:

• the sash has support, so it will never sag;
• the simplicity of the device allows it to be made by a craftsman who does not have much experience;
• the sash does not take up much space and is equal to the width of the entrance opening.

Flaws such devices:

• the operation of the sash can be disrupted by trapped debris or snow cover;
• the rail guiding the web must be cleaned regularly;
• the rail laid on top of the soil protrudes slightly, which makes it difficult for a vehicle to enter.

Sliding gates consisting of two parts

Sliding gates are sometimes made of two parts. This working principle allows you to save space in the width of the wall, since the gate is divided into two parts.

The design can also be equipped with automation and opened with a remote control. Electric drives are installed in each gate leaf.

Design and arrangement of gates with a sliding mechanism

One of the most popular gates are cantilever gates, the design of which consists of the following elements:

Making sliding gates with your own hands

Preparation for work start by checking the necessary tools:

All of the listed tools can be found in every home, with the exception of only a welding machine. You can ask your friends or neighbors for it. If funds allow, it is better to buy it; such a tool will never be superfluous.

You may be interested in how to make fence gates from corrugated sheets.

Creating a drawing and diagram

If all necessary tools in stock, you can proceed to counting the building materials that need to be purchased on the construction market and metal warehouse.

The frame is being made by welding first pipes 60x40 millimeters, 6 meters long to the guide. Next, two vertical pipes 60x40 millimeters, 2 meters each, are attached, the first to the edge, the second at a distance of 4.4 meters from the edge of the horizontal pipe.

A horizontal pipe, 4.4 meters long, is attached to the upper ends of these pipes. The free edge of the lower horizontal pipe and the edge of the upper one are connected at an angle by a 2.56 meter pipe.

The frame canvas should be filled with vertical pipes 40x20 millimeters. Next they move on to the power frame.

The foundation for the future structure must be prepared by digging a U-shaped pit at least one and a half meters deep.

A section with an opening of four meters should be equal to six meters. Road clearance you need to draw at least seventy-five millimeters.

Power frame It is prepared from a channel (2.2 meters long and 20 centimeters wide) and reinforcement, the height of which is 1.5 meters, in mutually perpendicular directions.

This structure is concreted and the drive platform and stand are welded to it. Next, the lower rollers are attached to the stand and the upper roller to the post. The upper and lower traps are attached to the post opposite the moving gate.

The last element The circuit is automatic and rack and pinion.

Material selection

Having drawn a diagram of the proposed design, you need to carefully study the material for the frame and door leaf.

The frame is made of wood or profile pipe.

The inside of the gate is created from:

When choosing a material from forged elements or wooden components, it is important to remember that such a design requires reinforced parts of components and additional fittings.

Screw piles are often used in sliding gates, and such supports are made within three or four days. If you use a concrete base, such work is carried out in the warm and dry season.

It takes a month for the material to dry completely., and this significantly delays the installation of sliding gates.

That's why screw piles are more practical and smarter when installing the gate yourself. Such piles can be moved to different places, and the concrete will remain poured in its original location.

The structures withstand vibrations thanks to their blades, and the cement base will become loose over time and disrupt the entire propulsion system of the structure.

Foundation made using screw piles is durable, and the installed canvas lasts a long time and without failures. Piles can be installed in weak and water-saturated soil. They cut through the soil until they find reliable support underground.

Installation of screw piles

The main condition for high-quality installation of screw piles in such a structure is rigidity. This condition is due to the fact that the screw piles bear an increased load. Material should not go into the ground even under the influence of its own weight.

When installing such a structure, you should use a profile pipe with the selected parameters and pipe sheathing. The frame is pre-coated with primer.

Gate components are selected taking into account the weight and height of the product. The canvas moves sideways along the guide; it is its quality that determines how long the structure will last.

It is important to know that the gate rollback must exceed the size of the opening. This distance is considered to be the measurement indicator of the console, which is equal to the width of the opening.

For efficient movement of gates installed on screw piles, an appropriate area will be required.

The choice of site must be approached thoroughly and with the calculation that the width of the gate should be multiplied by a factor of one point five, then the ideal distance will be obtained. This is important for convenient use of the product..

Installation of piles produced in several stages:

1. Laying the foundation, which includes marking the territory and clearing holes from soil. Installation of embedded materials and, if necessary, pouring concrete.
2. If the master plans to install automatic control, he must electrical cabling.
3. Sequential installation of poles and the entire gate system.

Estimated movement of the gate system fixed with lacing, stretched along the line of the entire opening. The recommended fixation height is two hundred millimeters.

If the pit was filled with a concrete solution, it will take seven days to continue the work until the solution dries completely.

Frame preparation

Metal product for frame treated with anti-corrosion coating and give it time for the solution to dry on the surface.

You can make the frame yourself, but the main thing is so that the welded elements have no holes in the joints. If there are such holes, dirt and snow will get into them.

The base of the frame consists of pipes measuring 60x40 mm, as shown in the photo with the sketch above. The ribs of the structure and the lintels inside can have a cross-section measuring 20x40 millimeters.

The frame is assembled in the following order:

1. Profile pipes are measured and cut according to the prepared drawing.
2. The resulting parts for creating a frame product are degreased, painted and treated with a special solvent.
3. The prepared elements are laid out on a flat surface.
4. The perimeter of the frame is assembled and clamped with a welding machine.
5. The corners of the product are checked and, if everything matches, they are finally welded together.
6. After welding, stiffeners and internal jumpers are installed on the product.
7. The lower part of the product is connected to the supporting beam.
8. The surface where the welding work was carried out is covered with an anti-corrosion coating and an additional layer of paint.

Manufacturing sliding gates with a wicket significantly complicates the entire design and installation process. Necessary take into account the location of the gate at the earliest stages of work.

Installation of corrugated sheets

To cover the gate you will need, screws 19 millimeters long and a screwdriver.

If the owner does not want to waste additional material for the counterweight triangle, this can be abandoned, because it will not be noticeable from the street side.

Automatic gates will look even better if the pillars are lined with brick. With basic knowledge about the masonry process, this is not difficult to do.

Necessary accessories

It is better to purchase the parts necessary to create a gate in specialized stores. It makes no sense to produce them yourself, because it is not justified from an economic point of view.

Before purchasing a rail mechanism, you need to calculate the required length. It is calculated based on the width of the gate and multiplying the number by 1.5.

Accessories designed for sliding gates selected based on the weight of the structure. There are parts that can withstand loads of up to four hundred kilograms, and sometimes there are models for sale for forged gates that can withstand up to eight hundred kilograms.

For gates with corrugated sheeting, parts that can withstand up to four hundred kilograms are suitable.

When choosing carriages with a roller mechanism, you need to decide what material they will be made of.

The building materials market offers a choice between metal and polymer materials. It is best to choose a polymer coating, with proper use it will last a long time and will create less noise than metal.

Fastening the strips

In a brick row, three embedded parts are made for the subsequent installation of the strip. A piece of reinforcement is welded to the post. A corner is attached to the edge of the reinforcement product in such a way that one part of it is held on the brick, and the other protrudes outward.

Upper and lower embedded parts installed at the level of the third bricks, and the middle one is in the middle of the product.

A pipe is welded to the protruding corners - a flashing with dimensions of 60x30 millimeters.

Guide rail

It is impossible to produce a rail for moving a structure at home, so you will have to spend money on purchasing such a part.

When choosing a material, you must first pay attention to presence of a mirror surface and correct angles. Manufacturers usually take care of their reputation and polish their products against rust.

Based on the weight and size of the structure, choose a suitable rail.

Maintaining the rails is not difficult: you need to regularly check its surface for dirt and excess debris.

Roller carriages

Movement of roller carriages allows you to move the gate system along the opening. Each carriage of the system consists of eight rollers made of metal or polymer coating.

The process of manufacturing the carriage is not difficult: holes are made in the marked metal plates to accommodate the roller mechanism.

To create a carriage you can use bearings from an old car, for example, from Zhiguli.

If the metal is not strong enough, then the plates are welded. When drilling, it is best to use oil to cool the surface.

The axes and holes are measured and the surface is cut to the required length. Place washers on the axle, then wheels, and screw the resulting structure for movement. Before welding the base bearings must be tightly packed with lubricant.

The process of making homemade rollers for sliding gates is shown in the video:

Catchers and plugs

Metal plates curved in a special way are designed to catch gates and their commits after closing. With the correct selection and quality of the metal used, making such products will not be difficult.

The plugs serve as protection for the guide from snow and mud. You can purchase ready-made protective elements made of rubber or plastic material. You can simply weld the ends of the beam material with a welding machine.

Independent production of fittings is allowed, but with the condition that the master already has experience in carrying out such work.

If you lack experience, it is better to purchase additional elements in specialized stores from reliable manufacturers.

Installation of frame and gate

After completing the creation and preparation of parts and structural elements, you need to install the frame and gate.

The carriages are placed on the channel installed in the foundation, while trying to move them apart when strengthening.

The frame for sliding gates is attached to the carriages and is set taking into account level indicators. After this, the carriage platforms are lightly welded to the channel system.

After these steps, control measurements are taken and the carriage platform is finally welded.

It is important to monitor the level indicators, which will indicate the presence of distortions in the structure.

After this, the traps of the upper and lower sections are welded, and the end rollers are installed.

Important to remember that the end rollers must engage the lower catch system so that they completely unload it when the system is closed.

Automatic system in sliding gates

The automatic opening of sliding gates is carried out by a mechanism equipped with electric drive. Opening occurs using a remote control button. To assemble such a mechanism, any materials from the garage are suitable, and mounting will take no more than a day.

The signal is supplied by a roller or chain system using an asynchronous motor.

At the preliminary stage of work, you need to select the appropriate engine for the mechanism.

If you have a three-phase meter with a star winding, it is recommended to choose this device.

With such a device, you can avoid problems with system movement and increase gate efficiency.

If a three-phase meter is not available, you can use single-phase with capacitor type. It is important to know that such a device has low performance, especially when starting the system.

If neither the first nor the second option is found, you can use less expensive materials. We must not forget about the reliable connection of kinematics. The gear shaft is connected to the engine using a rigid coupling.

The gearbox can be replaced by a belt drive. This method of assembly work has difficulties connecting the tripod elements and the additional use of an automobile tensioning mechanism.

The mechanism with an independent shaft is of particular importance when using a belt mechanism. Extreme care must be taken to center the shaft, because it is on it that there are two transmissions.

Self-manufacturing of electric drives

The most basic installation method automation of the sliding gate movement process is a chain or, as it is also called, rack and pinion transmission.

A bicycle chain is attached to the gear shaft, and another special one is installed on top of it, with a diameter in the links similar to that of the sprocket.

The chain is installed in a horizontal plane. Sprocket rotation in one direction or the other sets the entire sliding gate mechanism in motion.

The engine and gearbox are strengthened using bolts with special nuts. The support for them must be rigid. Elongated holes are made under the base to securely fix the motor mechanism.

The next step in installation is attaching the chain to the gate. The chain is installed at the bottom of the beam, and a casing is used as additional protection made of rubber material.

In order to finally strengthen the chain, welding is used.

Installation of automatic gates

To put it all together, you need to perform several steps:

1. Before installation, you need to select a place for installation and begin installing the rail in such a way that so that it is on the surface of the gear.
2. The drive is fixed at the desired point with a welding machine.
3. Next you need install the rack. It is welded to the pipe and pulled past the surface of the canvas.
4. All elements are checked and welded again.
5. The next stage is the installation of limit switches. They can be mechanical or magnetic.
6. The system must be connected in accordance with the instructions given by the manufacturer. Settings for additional functions are carried out using the remote control.
7. Further install lighting elements, capturing photo signals.

To install, you need to make a hole in the pipe and route the main power supplies through it.

8. Mounting a signal type lamp that transmits data about approaching objects. This element can be excluded from the installation, but for the safety of the structure it is better to use it.

How to make a simple sliding gate with your own hands, see the video below:

All you need for this is the appropriate tools and the ability to understand drawings and diagrams. With some diligence, the finished result will look and function no worse than a factory-made design. Such gates can be successfully manufactured and installed at the dacha, in country house, in a parking lot, etc.

As you already understand, we are talking about cantilever-type gates, the panel of which moves on roller supports. There is another design option - rail, which is considered obsolete today, and we will not consider it. And for those who are interested in a cantilever (retractable) design, we offer detailed instructions for its installation, including a set of works on preparing the gate opening, laying out the foundation and installation sequence.

DIY sliding gates, concrete base or piles

Video on how to make sliding gates with your own hands

Sliding gate device

• The guide is integral with the gate leaf and takes the entire load from its weight;
• Roller support (trolley) – 2 pieces, the gates in the console part are installed on them;
• The end roller is removable - serves as a support for the edge of the gate when closed;
• Lower catcher – takes the load from the support roller when the gate is closed;
• Upper catcher – reduces the windage of the gate when closed;
• Bracket (upper clamp with rollers) – holds the sash against lateral swings;
• Stand – supports are mounted on it to ensure movement of the gate leaf.

The process of manufacturing and installing sliding gates with your own hands involves constructing a foundation. A guide beam is welded to the lower edge of the sash, the load from which is taken by two roller supports installed on the foundation. It is thanks to them that the gate leaf moves in the desired direction.

The support rollers are located inside the supporting console. Gates of this design can be automatic (operated by an electric drive) or opened manually. They are very convenient to use at any time of the year.

Gate leaf requirements

In order for the structure to remain stable and rigid during strong winds, its sash must be sufficiently rigid to withstand wind loads.

Also, the canvas should not sag under its own weight.

It is better to purchase high-quality metal for the gate leaf, without signs of corrosion, and in satisfactory condition. The total required amount of metal and reinforcement can be calculated from the drawings.

Gate drawings

From different manufacturers you can find many different models of sliding gates. It is not difficult to find their drawings, if desired, including on the Internet. We offer you the best, in our opinion, option from a technical and financial point of view.

The gate leaf is made of a metal pipe. The frame will require a profile pipe 60x40x2 mm; for lathing – 20x20x1.5 mm. We suggest using a drawing with which you can make a frame for sliding gates with an opening width of 4 m.

After the frame is ready, a guide beam should be welded to it, which can be purchased ready-made from our company, which sells components for do-it-yourself sliding gates. After this, the frame is primed and painted in the desired color with metal paint.

A- opening width; B- guide length (opening width + 40%); Pipe - 60x40 mm.(main frame); Pipe - 20x20 mm.(lathing);

Gate painting

The first step is to prepare surfaces for painting and degrease them. For this purpose, you need to clean the surfaces with sandpaper or treat them with a grinder and a grinding disc. Cleaned areas should be wiped with acetone. You can start priming.

The primer must be applied evenly to the surface, avoiding streaks and drops whenever possible. After the primer layer has completely dried, the paint layer is applied. Such a thorough approach will ensure that the paint will lie smoothly and the structure itself will not be subject to corrosion.

The second paint layer is applied after the first has completely dried. If the result is not very aesthetic, you can paint it a third time. The time for complete drying may vary depending on the time of year and range from several hours to 2-5 days. Once painting is complete, you can proceed to further steps.

Selection of components

The selection criteria in this case are the width of the opening, the height of the gate leaf, and their total weight. The main element of the gate, on which its reliability and performance depends, is the guide.

The key to efficiency when installing sliding gates with your own hands is the correct selection of components, which are present in our catalog in the form of ready-made kits:

• Russian – Roltek and Doorhan
• Italian – Came
• Belarusian – Alutech

The selection of components should be carried out taking into account the following requirements: The total length of the gate leaf is calculated using the formula “opening width + 40%”. The components are selected according to the length of the guide beam and the permissible load.

Calculation example

For example, the width of the opening is 3.8 m. Therefore, the length of the gate leaf will be equal to 3.8 m + 40%, i.e. 5.32 m. In this case, you can buy a standard set with a 6 m guide. Usually, when the opening width does not exceed 4 m, ready-made sets of components are purchased, designed for a load of up to 500 kg. The guide beam in them has a cross-section of 71x65 mm and a wall thickness of 3.5 mm.

If the opening width exceeds 5 m, a set of components designed for more severe loads exceeding 600 kg is required. In such cases, before purchasing a ready-made set, it makes sense to consult with the company’s specialists for the optimal choice.

Installation of sliding gates

Having a certain understanding of the design of gates and the features of their installation, you can carry out independent installation. The movement of the canvas occurs from the inside of the site, along the fence (fence). Therefore, first of all, you need to take care of the place where the sash will roll back so that there are no obstacles in its path.

We suggest you consider the option of rolling the canvas to the right. The distance required to roll back the gate leaf is equal to the width of the opening plus the size of the cantilever part, which, in turn, is about half the width of the opening. If this requirement is met, the process of opening and closing the gate will not cause problems. The cantilever part itself does not close the opening, but acts as a counterweight.

Sequence of work

• Foundation construction: pit development, soil excavation, installation of a foundation element, concreting;
• Cabling arrangement (if it is planned to install automatic gates);
• Installation of gates and return posts;
• Automation installation, gate testing.

Construction of a concrete foundation

1st stage

In order to mark the hole for the foundation, you need to set aside a distance equal to ½ the width of the passage in the direction the gate rolls away, along the fence of the site, starting from the edge of the gate opening. This will be the location for our concrete base (length). Step back approximately half a meter from the fence towards the site - this will be its width. Thus, we will have the perimeter of the future foundation.

In some cases, fence posts can be used as support posts for sliding gates. If this is not possible, a counter post must be provided. The hole for it is located on the opposite side of the opening, strictly opposite the hole for the foundation. This is done taking into account that the return post adjoins the fence from the inside and does not reduce the width of the opening.

If you plan to make automatic sliding gates with your own hands, it is necessary to provide conditions for laying the electrical cable under the driveway. You will need a plastic or metal pipe with a diameter of at least 25 mm.

2nd stage

Excavation is usually carried out to a depth of at least 2 m, i.e. exceeding the freezing depth. As for the Moscow region, where the freezing depth is less, it is enough to remove the soil from the hole under the foundation at a depth of 1.7-1.8 m.

3rd stage

In order to make an embedded element, you will need a section of channel 16, along the length of the hole for the concrete foundation. The reinforcement grid and ties can be made from d 12 reinforcement. The sequence of actions is as follows: first, sections of reinforcement are welded to the channel, then transverse ties (see image).

4th stage

The finished embedded element is placed in the hole with the reinforcement down, so as to ensure a tight fit of the side surface of the channel to the fence post. You should use a level to make sure that the body of the channel is fixed in a strictly horizontal position, parallel to the gate opening line.

Important point

The height of the top of the embedded element in relation to the plane of the road surface. If they are located at the same level, then the minimum gap between the road and the bottom edge of the gate will be about 100 mm. Using the adjustment pads, you can slightly increase this gap. But it is not possible to reduce it without compromising the manufacturability of the fastening.

If the standard gap size of 100 mm is not suitable for some reason, a deeper installation of the embedded element is required.

When it is planned to install fixed sliding gates with an opening width of more than 4.5 m, two support pillars will be needed in order to ensure stable operation of the gate and its ability to withstand windage during opening and closing. Also, in some cases, existing fence posts cannot be used as supports for sliding gates.

In such cases, you will need to prepare one or two support pillars, the size of which is calculated as the height from the foundation to the top point of the gate plus 50 mm. The finished structures are installed in the pit and connected in the lower part with the embedded element (see figure).

5th stage

Concreting for DIY sliding gates performed after the final installation of the embedded element. The pit is filled with concrete mortar so that the level of concrete is higher than the surface of the embedded element. The hardening time is at least six days.

1st stage

Marking the line of movement of the sash is carried out as follows. A cord is pulled along the line of the gate opening, 2-3 cm short of the return post. This will be the trajectory of the sash movement. The cord should be pulled at a height of 15-20 cm.

2nd stage

The figure shows how to fix the adjustment pads on the trolley platform.

3rd stage

Now it is necessary to determine the extreme positions of the first and second roller bearings. Step back 150 mm from the edge of the opening along the plane of the embedded element and draw a line for the extreme position of the first trolley. Draw the tangent of the second trolley as follows: measure the length of the gate together with the console part and set aside this length, minus 100 mm, from the edge of the counter post along the plane of the embedded element. We obtain the extreme position of the second cart.

4th stage

The gate is assembled as follows. Insert the roller supports one by one into the supporting profile, placing them in the center. Bring the gate to a vertical position, move both supports to their tangents, and install the gate close to the cord.

5th stage

Actually, we are installing it. The adjustment pads of the second trolley must be welded, after which the sash must be completely rolled out into the opening and its position must be finally adjusted. After this, weld the adjustment pads of the second cart.

• Remove the canvas from the roller carts;
• Remove the trolleys themselves from the adjustment platforms;
• Weld the platforms to the embedded element;
• Attach roller carts to them;
• Push the sliding gate leaf onto the roller trolleys;
• Close the gate;
• Use a wrench to make final adjustments to the gate position.

6th stage

To ensure that the roller carriages are installed correctly inside the supporting profile, you need to perform the following steps. Loosen the top nuts securing the trolleys to the platforms and roll the gate back and forth several times, from one extreme position to the other. After making sure that the gate moves freely, you should tighten the nuts and make sure that the quality of the gate movement remains at the proper level.

If you find that the web is moving with difficulty, it is necessary to slightly loosen the fasteners and correct the distortions of the roller carts, especially in the plane perpendicular to the movement of the web.

7th stage

At this stage you need to install the end roller. We insert it inside the supporting profile and tighten the fastening bolts. We weld the end roller cover to the profile so that the roller reliably plays the role of an end stop during manual movement of the door leaf. The welding point in this case will be a more reliable fastening than a bolted connection.

The support profile plug is installed on the inside of the gate and welded in place. This element is needed to prevent snow from getting inside the supporting profile in winter. Otherwise, the snow will be rolled away by the rollers of the trolley, and this may lead to jamming of the gate. When installing DIY sliding gates this point must be taken into account.

8th stage

Now you need to install the upper clamp with rollers. To do this, loosen the fasteners of the rollers and install the bracket above the gate leaf so that its side with the holes is directed towards the support post, and the rollers grip the top of the gate leaf.

Press the bracket against the post and secure it. Bring the gate to a vertical position, aligning it with a level, and secure it with the rollers of the upper lock.

9th stage

If you plan to sheathe the sliding gate leaf, you can use, for example, a profiled sheet for these purposes, having previously ordered it cut to the required dimensions. Installation of the profiled sheet should be carried out from the front edge of the door leaf. Attaching it to the gate frame can be done in two ways: using self-tapping screws or by riveting, however, the second method is more reliable.

The second sheet is mounted overlapping with the first (overlaid on one wave and secured). Thus, it is necessary to install the required number of profiled sheets until the door leaf is completely covered. The last sheet will most likely have to be trimmed further in order for it to fit within the perimeter.

10th stage

After the gate trim is completed, you can begin installing the catchers - upper and lower. Since the role of the lower catcher is to reduce the load on the roller carts when the gate is closed, it is installed when the gate is fully loaded. With the gate completely closed, you need to bring the lower catcher under the end roller so that the supporting plane of the catcher is above the level of the end roller.

The upper catcher is installed in such a way that when the gate is closed, its upper brackets touch the protective corners of the front edge of the gate leaf.

Stage 11

On DIY sliding gates you can install automation. In this case, the movement of the sash will be carried out using an electric drive. For this purpose, a toothed rack is attached to the door leaf - a universal part that is compatible with electric drives for gates of all manufacturers. Such a rail is usually included in the kit of fasteners.

The gate automation kit usually comes with installation instructions, which you should follow.

Automation selection

Automation for sliding gates – more freedom, more comfort!

Don't want to manually open and close your sliding gate?

A remote controlled drive will allow you to do this without leaving the car.

Tools and equipment

To manufacture and install sliding gates you will need:

• Welding machine, preferably an inverter one. It does not damage the metal and ensures optimal weld quality.
• Grinder with discs various types. With its help you can cut metal blanks for gates.
• An air compressor that will ensure uniform painting of the gate. If it is not available, you can paint the gate with a regular roller.
• Pliers, hammer, drill, tape measure, level, riveter.

If you have any questions regarding the installation of sliding gates, or would like to find out the cost of installation services, please contact us by phone.

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